Wanna travel to Iraq with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Iraq, where we’ll visit Baghdad, Babylon, Karbala, Mosul, and more

September 30 to October 10, 2024

learn more

Despite being the cradle of civilization, home to ancient, historical places like Ur and Babylon, Iraq has always been the Middle East’s most well-kept secret.

Back during Saddam’s time, unless you were a soldier or on a diplomatic mission, chances that you went to Iraq were pretty scarce.

Then, came the American invasion, unleashing a nearly 20-year conflict that evolved into civil war between several parties, the Islamic State attracting most of the media attention.

Today, the country has finally gained a certain stability and, with the introduction of a visa on arrival regime, intrepid travelers can finally discover the unknown – and absolutely epic – treasures Iraq has been hiding.

This is a compelling 10-day itinerary containing the things to do in Iraq, and the itinerary we always follow during our expeditions.

Remember that this post refers to Federal Iraq, not Kurdistan.

For places to visit in Kurdistan, refer to our Iraq Kurdistan itinerary.

Iraq travel itinerary: independently or on a tour

Iraq isn’t the easiest country to travel to, but independent travel is doable.

During my first visit, I backpacked around Iraq solo for 3 weeks.

It did present its own challenges, especially at certain checkpoints but overall, experienced travelers will find it relatively easy and highly rewarding.

Going on a tour, however, can also present many advantages.

As you may know, in Against the Compass, we run several expeditions into Iraq per year:

• Sep 30th to Oct 10th, 2024. APPLY NOW
• Oct 23rd to Nov 3rd, 2024. APPLY NOW
• Dec 6th to 16th, 2024. (Spanish) APPLY NOW
• Feb 18th to 28th, 2025. APPLY NOW
• Apr 4th to 14th, 2025. APPLY NOW

Places to visit in Iraq in a 10-day itinerary

Map of the things to do in Iraq

What to do in Iraq on Day 1 & 2 – Baghdad

Formerly known as the City of Peace – Madinat Al-Salam – Baghdad is a bustling, chaotic, lively, and welcoming city, all at the same time.

I like Baghdad.

It’s a cool city to walk around and hang out with open-minded Iraqis but to be very honest with you, it’s not my favorite place to visit in Iraq, probably because it’s too difficult to get around – traffic is insane and there’s no metro.

Still, strolling the streets of Baghdad is epic because come on, we are talking about Baghdad here.

Between bazaars, monuments, and cool areas to hang out in, Baghdad could keep you busy for several days.

Things to do in Baghdad (Highlights)

National Museum (The Iraq Museum). It contains endless treasures that belong to many of the places you will be visiting in Iraq. Apparently, it’s been finally reopened after years of being closed, making it one of the most desired places to visit in Iraq for history lovers.

Al-Mutanabbi street. Al-Mutanabbi (10th century) is the greatest poet in the Arab world, and the famous book market was named after him.

Al Rasheed street. The main market street, packed with interesting Ottoman buildings and people.

Shabandar café. One of the oldest tea houses in Iraq, Shabandar café is the Iraq seen in the romantic movies, a hub for intellectuals for more than 100 years, and the best place to visit in Iraq for a cup of tea.

Martyr’s Monument. As a single attraction, Al-Shaheed Monument is the most jaw dropping place to visit in Baghdad. Composed of two absolutely massive turquoise half domes, it’s a memorial to those who died – both Iraqis and Iranians – during the Iran-Iraq war (1980-1988).

Tahrir Square & the Freedom Monument. Tahrir is the main square in Baghdad, which is dominated by the Freedom Monument, a mural that depicts the 1958 Revolution. You’ll also see a lot of police, and that’s because Tahrir Square witnessed a pretty big demonstration against the Government back in 2021.

Copper market (Safafeer). In my opinion, this is the most interesting bazaar to visit in Iraq, where you’ll find all sorts of artefacts handmade by local Iraqis.

Things to do in Iraq on Day 3 – Ancient Babylon & Saddam Hussein Palace (overnight in Karbala)

Read: Places to visit in Syria – 1-week itinerary

After exploring Baghdad, your Iraq itinerary should lead to Ancient Babylon, located 2-3 hours south of Baghdad, depending on traffic.

Visit Babylon

Today, Babylon is an archaeological site close to a small, uninteresting town named Hillah.

In fact, most independent travelers prefer to visit Babylon on a day trip (either from Baghdad or Karbala), since the few hotels available in Hillah are expensive, plus nothing is going on.

Contrary to what most people believe, Babylon isn’t the oldest city in the world. Dating back to 2350 BCE, Babylon used to be a mere village attached to the older and greater City of Ur, and it wasn’t until several centuries later that it began to prosper, becoming the first large and great city in the world.

The Hanging Gardens, one of the 7 Ancient World Wonders, and the Tower of Babel used to stand within these walls, even though there’s nothing left of them.

How to visit Ancient Babylon

Today, Babylon is a pretty big archaeological complex, which can be visited in 2 to 5 hours, depending on how passionate about archaeology and ancient history you are.

Entrance fee is 25,000 dinars.

The site itself has 1 or 2 accredited guides who speak OK English.

While they give a very basic understanding about the generic history of Babylon, they do know about many secrets hidden among those stones, plus they get you access to areas under restoration. During our visit, the price wasn’t fixed, but our guide expected something around at least 20,000IQD for the visit.

Things to see in Babylon

Ishtar Gate – Today the most Instagrammeable place to visit in Iraq – if there has to be one – Ishtar was one of the several gates that gave access to Babylon (500BCE).

What you see today, however, is a replica made by Saddam. The original one can be seen at the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.

Lion of Babylon – This 2600-year-old statue representing a Mesopotamian lion standing above a human.

Babylon dragons – Dragon-shaped divine creatures associated with Marduk, the god of the city. They can be seen on many walls.

Ishtar Gate and the eternal debate
The original Ishtar was actually smuggled – yes, smuggled – out by German archaeologists at the beginning of the 20th century, with the help of local Sheikhs in a time when Iraq was under Ottoman rule. During the 21st century, Iraq has unsuccessfully attempted its repatriation on different occasions, Germans claiming that the gate is safer in Berlin. As a war-torn country ruled by some of the most corrupt politicians in the world, many people believe that, if it weren’t for the Germans, this gate wouldn’t exist today, while others claim that its fate should have been decided by the Iraqis themselves. Do all these artefacts belong to all humanity, or just to the country where they have been found? Personally, I don’t really know.

How to get to Babylon from Baghdad

To go to Babylon, you must first get a shared taxi to the city of Hillah.

For that, shared taxis leave from Allawi South Garage, and cost around 10,000IQD.

Babylon is located 10km from Hillah city center. You’ll have to take a private taxi, which should cost a maximum of 5,000IQD.

Visit Saddam Hussein Palace

Overlooking the Euphrates River, Saddam Hussein built a massive, luxurious palace for himself with the best views of Ancient Babylon, making it the most bizarre place to visit in Iraq.

Today abandoned, this palace still features a pretty impressive painting on the ceiling of the main hall, as well as a Communist-like mural at the main entrance.

This is one of the more than 60 palaces that Saddam Hussein had across Iraq. If you are interested, there’s another one you can visit is in Gara Mountain, near Amedi in Kurdistan. While the palace itself is not as impressive, it has great views, plus it’s been turned into a Peshmerga base. For more information, check my Kurdistan Itinerary.

How to get to Saddam Hussein Palace from Babylon

The palace can be seen from the archaeological site, located 2 kilometers away.

After visiting the palace, I recommend going to Karbala, and the reason is that evenings in Karbala are absolutely lively, something one must experience.

How to get to Karbala from Babylon

In Hillah, ask for Karbala garage. A shared taxi should cost no more than 2,000IQD.

Places to visit in Iraq on Day 4: Karbala (overnight in Nasiriyah)

Let me tell you a story concerning Islam, from a non-Muslim perspective, meaning that it will probably be pretty basic.

When the Prophet Mohammed passed away in 632 CE, there was a huge disagreement over who should be his successor.

Some people claimed that the successor had to be chosen by the Islamic elite, while others believed he had to be someone from the Prophet’s family, Imam Ali, the prophet’s son-in-law.

This last group of people became known as the Shiat Ali, the followers of Ali or just Shia.

That’s when the great divide between Shia and Sunni started.

Karbala is one of the holiest cities in the world for Shia Muslims, and the reason is that here you find two shrines with the tombs of Imam Hussain (Ali’s son) and Abbas (Hussain’s half-brother).

Every year, millions of Shia pilgrims from all over the world, especially from Saudi Arabia, Iran, Azerbaijan, and Bahrain, come to Karbala to pray in those shrines.

Arba’een pilgrimage
Similar to Hajj in Mecca (Saudi Arabia), Arba’een is one of the largest pilgrimages in the world, taking place forty days after Ashura, and commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hussain. During this pilgrimage, millions of Shia pilgrims visit Karbala within a period of 2-3 days.

How to visit the shrines in Karbala

The center of Karbala – where you find the two main shrines as well as most restaurants and hotels – is surrounded by a security perimeter, where they check your bags and all that stuff.

Be aware that Karbala is as holy as Mecca, hence people are very sensitive to any sort of non-Muslim behavior.

In one of our expeditions, one of our participants had a bottle of vodka in his bag (don’t ask me why) which they found when x-raying it upon entering the pilgrim area. He was held for a few hours, while our local guide expected the worse but, other than taking his fingerprints, nothing happened to him eventually.

On the other hand, women visiting Karbala must wear a chador – or an abaya with a hijab – that covers from head to toe, and it’s recommended to buy one in Baghdad.

Read our female travel in Iraq for more info.

The two shrines are located one next to other and they are open 24/7. Entrance is free and remember that DSLR cameras are not allowed, but you can leave them near the entrance, where they keep your shoes.

How to get to Nasiriyah from Karbala

After lunch, I recommend going to Nasiriyah. Direct shared taxis depart from the garage in Karbala. It’s a 300-kilometer ride.

The checkpoint upon entering Nasiriyah used to be a very tough one, but not anymore.

For more information, read the checkpoint section of my Iraq travel guide.

Should you visit Najaf?
Najaf is the other super holy place to go in Iraq, another top pilgrimage place. The reason I didn’t add it to this Iraq itinerary is that we don’t include it in our Iraq expeditions and that is because I didn’t personally love it. I mean, it’s an interesting city with a nice bazaar and a beautiful shrine but it can’t compete with Karbala. If you have the time, do visit it but, if you have to choose one, stick with Karbala.

Cool things to do in Iraq on Day 5 – Day trip to the Mesopotamian Marshes (overnight in Nasiriya)

On day 5, I recommend going straight to the Marshes from Nasiriyah, and leave your Nasiriyah visit for the following day.

For many, the Mesopotamian Marshes, or Arab Marshes, are the best place to visit in Iraq, a wetland ecosystem in south Iraq, an aquatic landscape in the middle of the desert, home to a distinct cultural group named the Marsh Arabs.

Occupying an area of 10,000km², the Marshes house many different species of animals and plants, including a large population of water buffalos, which you will certainly cross into during your boat trip.

The Marshes are also dotted with hundreds of islands, many of them inhabited by the Marsh Arabs, who traditionally live in sarifas, a peculiar house entirely made of reed.

Marsh Arabs living in the islands are particularly conservative, so be careful when taking pictures, or walking around their settlements.

How to visit the Marshes (independently)

The best way to experience the Marshes is on a local canoe, sailing across the entangled, natural pathways formed by the vegetation.

For that, the easiest is to be on an organized tour, but you could but you can do it independently too, that’s what I did during my first time.

For that, wake up extra early in the morning and take a shared taxi from Nasiriyah to Chibayish, the main town in the Marshes.

The taxi will drop you at the main bazaar, which is around 6km from the point where boats depart from, so you’ll need to get a private taxi. The boat departure area is right next to the floating mosque and the Monument of Martyrs, just here.

Also, check Eva’s video on the Marshes

The Marshes receive a significant number of domestic tourists, so don’t be surprised by the large number of locals offering you a boat ride. Most of those boat owners are young Iraqis in their twenties wearing normal clothes but, for a true experience, choose one of the older, bearded men with traditional clothes.

If there aren’t any, ask for Abu Hayder, an authentic Marsh Arab who has become quite a celebrity in the area, not only because he is a charismatic singer, but because he has hosted quite a few YouTubers with a large audience.

The boat ride costs around $20-$25 for 2-3 hours.

Where to stay in the Marshes

If you have the time, staying in a traditional house in the Marshes is quite an experience.

During my first visit, Abu Hayder offered to let me stay at his house for $30, including dinner, breakfast, and his lovely hospitality.

When I came with the group expedition back in March 2022, we stayed on one of the local islands with a local family. For intrepid travelers, it was a unique experience, but be aware that they still don’t understand the concept of tourism, so there was no kind of facility; it was just as they lived.

In any case, staying on an island is something you must arrange in advance with a travel agency.

Things to do in Iraq on Day 6 – Nasiriya, the City of Ur and back to Baghdad

Nasiriya is one of the largest cities in Iraq, popular among tourists for being the getaway to the Mesopotamian Marshes.

It’s also known for being a high-security city, home to the American-built Al-Hoot prison, a maximum-security prison today filled with ISIS fighters.

Honestly, there’s not a lot to do in Nasiriyah, but it’s more like a transit town for going to other places so, unless you know local people to hang out with, I don’t recommend staying here for very long.

Visit Ziggurat of Ur

Archaeology fans agree that experiencing Ur is the best single thing to do in Iraq.

Ur is perhaps one of the oldest cities in the world (3800 BCE) – even older than Babylon – and believed to be the birthplace of Abraham.

It is located around 20km from Nasiriya, making it the perfect few-hour trip from Nasiriya. There is no public transportation, but you can easily go there in a private taxi.

Entrance fee is 25,000IQD.

After visiting Ur, go back to Nasiriyah and take a local shared taxi to Baghdad, located 5 hours away, a bit more if there’s traffic upon arriving in Baghdad.

Spend the night in Baghdad.

CLICK HERE TO LOOK FOR ACCOMMODATION IN BAGHDAD

What to do in Iraq on Day 7 – Samarra & Hatra (overnight in Mosul)

Travelers moving around by public transportation will find it difficult to visit Samarra and then go to Mosul on the same day, since there’s no direct transportation from Samarra to Mosul. To make it even more complicated, know that it’s not allowed to stay overnight in Samarra. Therefore, independent travelers should visit Samarra on a day trip from Baghdad, go back to Baghdad and then take a shared taxi to Mosul on the following day. Hatra can be visited on a day trip from Mosul.

Visit Samarra

The UNESCO World Heritage city of Samarra was the capital of the Abbasid caliphate, the third caliphate to succeed the Prophet Muhammad.

Independent travelers will notice that there are a lot of checkpoints in Samarra.

Back in 2006, the city of Samarra was affected by a suicide bombing targeting Al-Askari mosque, one of the holiest shrines in the world for Shia Muslims.

Since then, the armed group and Shia militia Sarayat Al Salam has taken control of Samarra, establishing checkpoints all over the city. They are a paranoid group, suspicious of everyone, especially foreigners but with the slow normalization of tourism, they aren’t giving too much trouble anymore.

Things to do in Samarra

The iconic minaret of Malwiya: The reason why many travelers come here, a jaw-dropping 52-meter-tall spiraling minaret that is part of the Grand Mosque of Samarra. The mosque was built in 851 and at that time, it was the largest mosque in the world. Entrance fee for the minaret is 25,000IQD

Al-Askari mosque: The third holiest mosque in Iraq after the shrines in Najaf and Karbala, a very important pilgrimage place for Shia Muslims.

Dar al-Khalifa (Palace of the Caliph): he Governmental palace during a significant period of the Abbasid Caliphate, today in excellent condition. Independent travelers will have a hard time getting in – I was not allowed to enter during my first visit, even though I went there with two locals from Samarra – but join one of our Iraq expeditions and you won’t experience any problems.

Where to stay in Samarra

Staying in Samarra is not allowed.

How to get to Samarra from Baghdad

Local shared taxis leave from the North Allawi Garage and cost 15,000IQD, 130km.

Visit Hatra

Hatra is the one place you can’t miss in your Iraq travel itinerary, outstanding.

Hatra is one of the most amazing places to visit in Iraq, an extremely well-preserved 2,000-year-old fortress located in the middle of the desert.

The cherry on top is that Hatra was used by ISIS as a base or training camp, the heritage of which is still visible in the many graffiti painted on its walls.

The fortress used to be a caravan city located between the Roman and Parthian empires, famed for its fusion of Greek, Mesopotamian, and Roman architecture. At first, it does look like a Roman temple, with many similarities to Palmyra, but it’s not.

Interesting to mention is that Hatra was the first place in Iraq to be listed as a UNESCO Heritage site.   

How to visit Hatra

As a former ISIS training camp, Hatra is located in a sensitive area, a place that witnessed a pretty fierce battle during the liberation from ISIS.

There are tanks and the few buildings that used to stand here are just rubble.

This is the reason why there’s no public transportation for going to Hatra but you can easily get there by taxi.

Visit Hatra by joining our upcoming Federal Iraq EXPEDITION.

Places to visit in Iraq on Day 8 – Mosul

Mosul is the most outstanding city to visit in Iraq.

Infamous for becoming the capital of ISIS from 2014 to 2017, the history of Mosul is rather long, one of the longest in the world in fact, dating back to 6000 BCE, and the area where the city of Nineveh was founded in 1800 BCE.

Mosul was liberated from ISIS in 2017, but that came with the high price of leaving an old city completely destroyed, once an open-air museum filled with architectural delights, an Outstanding Universal Value, according to UNESCO.

Today, life is coming back to Mosul, Iraqis are returning and a big UNESCO team is restoring and rebuilding many of its treasures.

With all the reconstruction, Mosul is living history, and experiencing it is the best thing to do in Iraq

For more information (safety, personal experience, etc.) read my Mosul travel guide.

Things to do in Mosul

Al Noori Mosque. The mosque where historical ISIS leader, Abu Bakr Al-Baghdadi, self-declared the ISIS caliphate, the first and only time he ever appeared in public.

Mosul synagogue. It’s undamaged. Apparently, this is where ISIS used to hide all their weapons.

Mosul Museum. I managed to enter thanks to a local friend, but it’s currently closed to the public. The interior of the museum was destroyed by ISIS and today, there’s a team of European archaeologists trying to sort out all pieces.

Churches of Hosh Al Baya square. This area comprises 3-4 very old churches, from different Christian branches, all of them heavily destroyed, but they are being rebuilt by UNESCO. Pope Francis celebrated mass in the middle of the square.

Ummayyad Mosque. The oldest mosque in Mosul. It has received very little damage.

Bash Tapia castle. A 12th-century castle overlooking the Tigris River.

For more information, read my Mosul travel guide.

Note: The archaeological site of Nineveh is currently closed

Where to stay in Mosul

Budget – Alsfer Hotel – Basic but pretty good and located in the old city. Best value-for-money option in Iraq, for which I paid less than 15€ a night.

Modern Palace Hotel – More expensive but nicer. They typically charge 30-40IQD per night.

How to get to Mosul from Baghdad

Shared taxis leave from North Allawi Garage and cost 20,000IQD.

What to visit in Iraq on Day 9 – Bakhdida

Bakhdida, or Karakosh, is revealing, and a place which not many include in their Iraq itinerary.

Home to 300,000 people, Bakhdida is the largest Christian city in Iraq and perhaps in the entire Middle East, the reason why Pope Francis had a special interest in visiting it back in March 2021.

The whole city was also occupied by ISIS but fortunately, all they found was an empty town, since the vast majority of people had left as soon as ISIS made it to Mosul, mostly seeking refuge in the Christian district of Ankawa, near Erbil

Nowadays, however, life is coming back in Bakhdida, and it does feel very Christian, visible in the abundance of churches, beer shops, and the relatively large presence of women.

In Bakhdida, you must visit the Catholic Church, the largest one in Iraq, and where Pope Francis celebrated mass. In our visit, we were lucky to be received by the main priest an extremely well-educated man who spoke good English and impeccable Italian, since he lived in the Vatican for quite a while.

He is a personal friend of the Pope too and showed us around the church, putting a strong focus on the recent history of ISIS.

The interior is fully restored because ISIS burnt it down, and the church’s courtyard was used by them as a training area. Heavy damage can still be seen, and bullets can still be found all over the place.

Near Bakhdida, there’s one Orthodox monastery named Mar Behnam, which shares many similarities with the recent history of Bakhdida.

How to get to Bakhdida from Mosul

I am sure there must be shared taxis going to those villages, but there are also quite a few checkpoints operated by different groups, and I don’t know what’s going to be like for independent travelers.

Interesting to mention is that one of the checkpoints is run by a Christian militia.

After Bakhdida, you can either go back to Mosul, or go to Kurdistan to start with your Kurdistan Itinerary.

What to visit in Iraq on Day 10 – Start your Kurdistan Itinerary

Highlights, places I recommend:

• Erbil
• Mar Mattai
• Duhok
• Saddam Hussein Palace (Gara Mountain)
• Amedi
• Sulaimaniyah
• Halabja
• Byara
• And more

Check our ultimate Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary

More information to complement your Iraq travel itinerary

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Iraq destination

• A City Guide to Mosul
• Visiting Syrian Refugee Camp
• Is Iraq Safe?
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraq
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Amedi
• Erbil Travel Guide
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraqi Kurdistan
• Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary
• Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

Travel Itineraries to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Itinerary
• Saudi Arabia Itinerary
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Lebanon
• Syria Itinerary

You will also like our Libya travel guide and Haiti Itinerary

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East.

Wanna travel to Iraq with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Iraq, where we’ll visit Baghdad, Babylon, Karbala, Mosul, and more

September 30 to October 10, 2024

learn more

For the average traveler, Iraq is considered one of the most dangerous countries in the world to travel to, and the reasons are more than obvious.

From the Iran-Iraq war back in 1980 to the Saddam Hussein Gulf conflict, the following US invasion, and the more contemporary civil war, where the bloodthirsty Islamic State was the main protagonist, the media has been showing us a dangerous Iraq dominated by war for more than three decades.

It will take years for Iraqis to get rid of that unfortunate reputation, and that’s why we are here:

To tell you that despite all that recent trouble, safety in Iraq has drastically improved, making it a relatively safe country to travel to, a land inhabited by beautiful Iraqis who just carry on with their lives and show nothing but kindness to any foreign guest they may bump into.

This guide is a complete analysis made to diagnose how safe is Iraq from a traveling perspective, which includes my personal experience, local insights, safety by region and more.

For all the practical information, read our Iraq travel guide

Latest update: How safe is Iraq?

Is the war between Gaza & Israel affecting safety in Iraq?

Today – believe it or not – Iraq is one of the most stable countries in the Middle East, and that unfortunate event between Gaza & Israel should not affect your plans of visiting Iraq.

Therefore, we believe that Iraq is all good to go.

For example, while just to be cautious, we decided to postpone ours trips to Syria that had been scheduled in 2023 due to the potential instability in Lebanon, in Iraq things are good as usual and in fact, we still ran 3 group expeditions in November and December 2023.

Is it safe to travel to Iraq today?

How safe is Iraq right now?

In March 2021, Pope Francis went to Iraq, visiting regions once held by ISIS, while proving to the rest of the world that Iraq wasn’t as dangerous as the media pretends it is.

Right after his visit, the Iraqi Government announced the introduction of a visa on arrival regime, available for up to 38 nationalities, including all EU passport holders, the USA, Canada, the UK and a couple more.

Check the Iraq visa section of my travel guide for more details.

Before the Pope’s visit, getting into Iraq with a tourist visa had always been extremely difficult, and expensive, so easing and liberalizing their visa regime, while encouraging travelers to go to Iraq, can only mean one thing:

From a tourism perspective, the safety situation has improved, which means that Iraq is a safe country to visit

The Islamic State took control of pretty much the entire north of Iraq – excluding the Kurdistan region – but by March 2019, they had lost most of their territory and today, they are nothing but a few insurgent groups hiding in remote desert areas, or not even that.

Their legacy in the northern towns and cities is still visible, especially in the old city of Mosul, most streets of which are composed of rubble. Reconstruction, however, is ongoing, many Iraqis are slowly moving back to their hometowns and the city bazaars seem more lively than ever.

So, is Iraq safe to travel?

In my opinion, there’s never been a safer time to travel to Iraq than in 2023.

Is it safe to travel to Iraq? A look into the Goverment’s advice

When looking at the Iraq travel advice from the US Department of State or the FCDO, it looks like Iraq is immersed in the most dangerous chaos ever, a giant red zone where only the absolutely insane would dare to venture.

While it’s true that this kind of advice has a certain logic behind it, know that they also show a distorted version of reality, typically based on an unlikely worst-case scenario.

Instead of trusting these biased reports, do talk to travelers who have recently been there, or locals who can tell you the latest updates in terms of safety in Iraq.

This blog post is precisely that, a deep analysis based on my personal traveling experience and locals’ insights.

How safe is traveling to Iraq from my personal experience

I traveled all over Iraq multiple times, from everywhere in the Kurdistan area to Mosul, Baghdad, Nasiriya, the Marshes, and everything in between.

In my experience, I personally believe that Iraq is a safe country to travel to, and the reasons are as follows:

It’s easy to move around

I found Iraq to be an extremely easy country to travel around, with plenty of public transportation and accommodation options.

All towns and cities are well-connected with buses and local shared taxis, and pretty much any city has a good offer of hotels for all budgets.

To my surprise, my initial perception was that backpacking in Iraq would be quite challenging, but it was not and in fact, I found Iraq much safer than Afghanistan, Mali, or even Pakistan, for example

The atmosphere is pretty relaxed

I was also surprised by how calm and peaceful all towns and cities seemed to be.

Petty crime is extremely rare and there wasn’t any visible tension.

I was always able to walk around freely with my camera without anyone ever asking questions or stopping me.

Local Iraqis will be there to help you

Local Iraqis are particularly kind, helpful, and hospitable. Amazing people.

As soon as they knew I was a foreigner, they would always approach me. In the worst-case scenario, they would just want to have a friendly chat while on other occasions, they would even offer to show me around or a cup of chai.

From my experience, Iraq felt like a safe place to visit, and I can’t recommend it enough.

Analysis: which regions in Iraq are safe to visit?

Let’s look at Iraq’s safety by region.

Is Baghdad safe?

Baghdad is a giant metropolis and the most likely starting point for adventurers heading into this country. It’s chaotic and absolutely packed with traffic jams but, with its lively bazaars and historical sites, it’s also one of the most exciting destinations to visit in Iraq.

The capital has lived some pretty dark days in its recent past, but it’s also one of the places which has seen the biggest security improvement.

Nowadays, I personally believe that Baghdad is a safe city to travel to.

There’s a lot of security, you can walk around freely, and the locals are very nice.

Nevertheless, always be cautious. We can’t forget that Baghdad is under terrorism threat, as happened in July 2021.

Is southern Iraq safe?

Anywhere south of Baghdad is considered southern Iraq, which includes popular destinations such as Karbala, Najaf, Babylon, Nasiriya, Chibayish, and Basra.

ISIS was mainly operating in the north and west, so south of Iraq has been safe for quite a while, even during ISIS rule.

Are Karbala and Najaf safe?

As you may know, Karbala and Najaf are the holiest cities in the world for Shia Muslims, two cities that every year receive millions of pilgrim tourists.

Given their importance for the Shia community, many foreign travelers believe Karbala and Najaf are dangerous cities to travel to, an obvious high-priority target for Sunni terrorists.

The threat definitely exists, but there’s also a high level of security, with strict checkpoints within a 1km perimeter from the actual shrines.

Moreover, to enter the shrines you are thoroughly checked and cameras and bags are not allowed to be brought inside.

Despite all this trouble, however, the atmosphere was rather relaxed as well.

Is northern Iraq safe?

The north is dominated by Mosul, a city liberated from ISIS back in 2017.

Is it safe to travel to Mosul?

I visited Mosul several times and it does feel safe, a city full of hope, becoming more and more vibrant as we speak, and where UNESCO is putting tremendous efforts into rebuilding one of the most beautiful old cities in the Middle East.

Nowadays, you can walk around all by yourself or go to dinner alone and you will find everything pretty smooth.

For more information, read. How to visit Mosul.

Is western Iraq safe?

Fallujah, Hit, Haditha or Rawa are all cities in West Iraq which you might be familiar with, especially Fallujah, a city that witnessed a fierce battle during the US Invasion.

The area was also taken by the Islamic State, only liberated in 2016/17.

Today, the west of Iraq remains the most off the beaten track region in Iraq – with touristic interest – home to lovely oasis towns sitting on the shores of the Euphrates River.

Is Fallujah safe?

Fallujah is the only place I have visited in the west of Iraq. It’s the Iraqi city that has suffered the most, first with the American invasion, and then with ISIS.

Today, Fallujah can finally enjoy some peace, but it’s also true that most visitors are forced to be accompanied by the local authorities.

Besides American soldiers and ISIS fighters, Fallujah has seen very few foreigners since 2001, so the locals are particularly happy to see international visitors interested in learning about the contemporary of their city.

Is Kurdistan safe?

Kurdistan is, by far, the safest region in Iraq.

For more information, read the next section.

Is Kurdistan safe to visit?

When reading about safety in Iraq, it’s important to differentiate between the northern region of Kurdistan and the rest of Iraq.

Is it safe to travel to Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan?

Kurdistan has always been a relatively safe and easy country to travel to compared to Federal Iraq, and a good alternative for travelers looking for something less hardcore.

Iraqi Kurdistan is a semi-autonomous region located in the north of the country.

Check my Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide

Technically, they are the same country, but Kurdistan enjoys a significant degree of political autonomy, it has its own army, there are different visa rules and you even get a different passport stamp.

From a cultural standpoint, Kurdistan is very different from the rest of Iraq.

You need to keep in mind that Kurdish people are not Arabs:

They wear their own traditional clothes, eat their own food, and speak a different language. Kurds like to say that their culture is closer to Iran than Arabs.

They are two completely different regions and, whatever you have been hearing in the news, for the past years, in relation to bombs, terrorist attacks, and ISIS, it didn’t really happen in Kurdistan but in the rest of Iraq.

Kurdistan has always been a relatively safe place to travel to, and that’s why travelers and backpackers alike have been visiting the country for quite some time now.

Why is Kurdistan safer than the rest of Iraq?

No religious sectarianism – Kurdistan is a mix of different religions and groups, including Christians, Muslims, Yazidis, Assyrians and more. However, their national identity has always prevailed over their religion, the reason why Kurdistan has never been a victim of the religious sectarianism that nearly led the rest of Iraq into being a failed state.

Support from foreign armies – If you look at the map before the liberation, you clearly see that Kurdistan was bordering ISIS territory. Yet, ISIS barely managed to get into Kurdistan and that’s partly due to the large support and presence of foreign armies, especially the Americans.

Large expat community – This is more like a consequence of all the above but, since Iraqi Kurdistan has always enjoyed certain stability, Erbil has become some sort of (a safe) regional business hub with many settled foreign companies.

Seeing Western expats and families wandering around the city is not a rare thing to see. On the other hand, there are many foreigners living in Baghdad too but, while in Erbil they are free to move around without putting themselves at risk, in Baghdad, they are not allowed to leave the international area known as the Green Zone.

Read: Where in the Middle East is safe to travel?

Is Iraq a dangerous country to visit? What you need to know

Is Iraq dangerous for tourists?

Here are some of the dangers:

Is there ISIS in Iraq?

After the liberation, most ISIS fighters were either killed or locked up in the high-security prison of Al-Hoot, in Nasiriya.

Those who managed to escape are either hiding the fact that they are former fighters or scraping by in the desert.

Suicide bombings in Iraq

Unfortunately, one of the dangers in Iraq is that the country is under terrorist threat, and anybody telling you otherwise is ignoring the reality because, in 2021, two suicide bombings took place in Baghdad, in January and July.

However, the probability of being caught in such an attack is low, since they happened in a specific place, at a certain time of the day.

Checkpoints in Iraq

One of the challenges – not really a danger- you may face as an independent traveler is going through checkpoints.

There are both army and police checkpoints at the entrance of every city, and also on roads. They may convey a certain respect but they exist for security reasons.

Some checkpoints are easy and you will just get through. Others, however, require some extra patience because the respective authorities will want to check your passport or even what’s inside your bag.

In any case, know that at all checkpoints the army guys tend to be friendly.

For more information and tips, check the checkpoints section of my travel guide.

Checkpoints in Kurdistan
In the Kurdistan region, all checkpoints are run by Peshmerga (the Kurdish army), but they are a lot easier than in Iraq. They might check your passport from time to time, but even independent travelers self-driving will get through very easily.

Shia Militias

Before venturing into Federal Iraq, I was warned to be careful with the different Shia Militias. They control different parts of Iraqi territory and are known to be quite hostile with anyone.

That’s not entirely true, in my opinion. Having traveled from north to south, the only place where I encountered some slight trouble was in the city of Samarra, which is controlled by a Shia Militia named Sarayat al Salam, and the only trouble they gave me was that they made me wait for a long time, but they were never unfriendly.

How to stay safe in Iraq

Make local friends

For independent travelers, having local friends is almost as good as traveling with a local guide.

For that, the Facebook group Iraqi Travelers Café is a great place to stay connected with English-speaking local Iraqis.

Use common sense

Stay away from public demonstrations, don’t walk alone in certain areas in the middle of the night, don’t trust anyone with suspicious behavior, etc., the usual stuff. Use your common traveling sense.

Is Iraq safe for American tourists?

Because of the invasion, many Americans wonder whether Iraq is a safe country to travel to for US citizens.

To be honest, I don’t think your nationality makes any difference in terms of safety. To the average Iraqi, you will just be one more foreigner and, when it comes to getting a visa, the same rules apply as EU passport holders.

Nevertheless, I have to admit that for entering Samarra – where you find the checkpoint of Sarayat al Salam – Americans tend to spend longer there, and that’s because, during the invasion, the US army killed many members from this Shia militia.

Is Iraq safe for women?

According to female travelers I have been talking to, traveling in Iraq as a solo woman isn’t very different than in other Arab countries like Egypt or Jordan.

Occasional verbal harassment does happen, but it’s rare, and most Iraqis will be nothing but extra kind with any foreign women.

What to wear as a solo female traveler in Iraq

In cities like Baghdad, Mosul, or Nasiriya, you will see all sorts of women dressing in all different ways, some of them apparently quite liberal.

However, do always dress modestly in order to avoid unwanted attention, and bring a headscarf with you, since you may need it depending on the area you are visiting.

On the other hand, in Karbala and Najaf – two very holy cities – a full abaya covering your whole body is mandatory.

For more information, read this Iraq travel guide for females.

More information for traveling safely in Iraq

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All our guides to Iraq

• Iraq Travel Guide
• Iraq Itinerary
• A City Guide to Mosul
• Visiting Syrian Refugee Camp
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraq
• Travel Guide to Amedi
• Erbil Travel Guide
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraqi Kurdistan
• Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary
• Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

Check more safety guides

• Is Afghanistan Safe?
• Is Iran Safe?
• Is Lebanon Safe?
• Is Mali Safe?
• Is Mauritania Safe?
• Is Middle East Safe?
• Is Oman Safe?
• Is Pakistan Safe?
• Is Sudan Safe?
• Is Syria Safe?
• Is Tunisia Safe?

Wanna travel to Syria with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Syria on:

September 15th to 27th, 2024

learn more

Syria had been in my plans for a very long time and, finally, they started to make it easier for travelers. Well, not that easy, but definitely easier.

Since 2018, I have visited Syria 6 times, visiting places like Damascus, Homs, Aleppo, Krak de Chevaliers, Hama, Busra, Palmyra and everything along the Syrian coast, including the island of Arwad.

Syria is pretty epic.

On the one hand, I got to visit ancient, marvelous sites that were a real blessing to my eyes.

And, on the other hand, it was a very enriching experience as well, since I met loads of Syrians who told me their side of the story, plus I was able to witness one of the worst humanitarian crises in the 21st century, visiting hair-raising places that require a lot of cold blood, if you don’t want to breakdown into tears, making you empathize with the many beautiful Syrians.

Long Live Syria.

This guide contains everything you need to know for traveling to Syria, including plenty of tips regarding visas, safety, transportation and much, much more!

Why visit Syria with Against the Compass?

Here are the reasons why we believe Syria is a mind-blowing country to travel to, as well as my honest reasons why you should join one of our Syria tours.

How to sign up for a tour in Syria

Unfortunately, independent travel in Syria is practically impossible nowadays, so the easiest – and only – way to travel to Syria is through a tour with a valid operator.

More on that in the visa section of this post.

Check this documentary on our Syria tours!

Upcoming group tours for Syria

Against the Compass has several scheduled group expeditions in 2024

• Sep 15th to 27th, 2024 (13 days). APPLY NOW
• Oct 13th to 20th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW
• Dec 23rd to 30th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW

How to join an individual tour or a smaller group for Syria

Do you wish to join a small group, but you can’t travel on any of the above dates?

No problem, just shoot me an email (joan@againstthecompass.com) indicating:

• How many people you are
• How many days do you want to spend in Syria
• Which dates

And we will try to find other travel partners you may travel with. Otherwise, know that we can also organize private, tailored trips.

Why should you visit Syria now?

This is a very good question, one I have been asked a lot recently.

The truth is that reasons vary.

First of all, in the last couple of years, I have been traveling all across the Middle East, so visiting Syria, one of the most fascinating countries in the region, had been on my travel plans for a very long time.

Another even more important reason is that Syria is a great country, home to one of the oldest civilizations ever, so visiting Syria from a tourism perspective is a must-do.

However, most people asking that question tend to refer more to the ethical aspect of traveling to Syria, as this is a war zone from where many people have been forced to escape in order to save their lives.

Well, I want you to know that I fully understand why someone would not want to visit a post-war zone because, truth be told, destroyed buildings and misery are not pleasant things to see.

Nevertheless, the first thing you need to know is that I travel to learn and become wiser and, yes, I am interested in visiting a post-war zone, because this is living history and I wanted to see it with my own eyes, and not through a biased newspaper.

I also think that traveling to Syria with the sole objective of empathizing with the locals is a good thing and, as long as you are absolutely respectful about the crisis, there is nothing wrong with it.

But in the end, we should ask Syrians what they think about it and I can assure you that, since Syria used to be a major touristic destination, today Syrians are very happy to see that tourists are coming back because this is a real sign of recovery.

For more information, read the Responsible Tourism section of this article.

Read about my experience in Aleppo

Recommended books for traveling to Syria

Syria travel guide by Bradt

There are no updated guidebooks of Syria, but Bradt Guides has the only exclusive travel guide to Syria, updated as of 2010.

Still, it is a good source and a nice introduction to the country

CLICK HERE TO CHECK THE PRICES ON AMAZON

The Rise of the Islamic State by Patrick Cockburn

A must-read book. Written by one of the world’s top experts on the Middle Eastern conflict. In this book, Cockburn gives a very comprehensive explanation of the origin of DAESH, with many references to Syria.

A very useful book to understand the complexity and origin of the conflict.

CLICK HERE TO CHECK THE PRICES ON AMAZON

How to get a tourist visa for Syria

Last updated information 2024

Getting a Syrian visa nowadays is pretty straightforward but that’s something you can’t do alone because the Ministry of Tourism dictates that all travelers who want to get a Syrian tourist visa must book a tour with an operator.

For that, Against the Compass is a licensed and valid tour operator that can help you obtain a visa for Syria.

Join one of our groups, and you will automatically get your visa for traveling to Syria.

We have several scheduled group expeditions over the following months:

Against the Compass has several scheduled group expeditions in 2024

• Sep 15th to 27th, 2024 (13 days). APPLY NOW
• Oct 13th to 20th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW
• Dec 23rd to 30th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW

How to get a Syrian visa directly from a tour operator

The first thing you must know is that travel agencies will not issue a tourist visa for Syria but a security clearance (a background check), which you need to show at customs.

Consider it as a Letter of Invitation.

This is what the security clearance looks like. Usually, it includes several random people:

With your security clearance in hand, you will be able to purchase a Syrian tourist visa at the border.

The problem, however, is that nowadays, travel agencies are not allowed to issue a security clearance unless you book a tour with them.

How much does the security clearance cost

It’s always included in the total tour package, so it really depends on what tour you book.

How long does it take to get the security clearance?

2 weeks as an average, but you may get the approval in just 2 days.

How long is it valid for?

The security clearance has a 90-day validity, starting from the day you receive it.

How much does the tourist visa for Syria cost?

These are the latest visa fees updated in 2024.

Note that prices tend to fluctuate based on the exchange rate but, as an average:

• European passport holders: 75 USD
• Canadian passports: 100 USD
• British, Australian, and Argentinian passports: 150 USD
• US passport holders: 200 USD

Try to bring the exact amount for the visa. Otherwise, they will give you your change in Syrian Pounds, using the official bank rate.

You will also have to pay an exit fee of 2,000SYP.

Can Americans get a visa for Syria?

Yes, since March 2023, American passport holders may travel to Syria.

Their visa application takes 4 weeks.

Which Tour Operator do I recommend for traveling to Syria?

I recommend Against the Compass, which only works with the best and most knowledgeable local guides.

As mentioned, we have several group trips a year and by the way, we also organize private tailored trips (from 2-day trips to Damascus to multi-day trips across Syria).

Learn more about Syria expeditions in this video:

How to get to Syria

How to travel to Syria by land

1 – How to travel from Beirut (Lebanon) to Damascus

Traveling to Damascus from Beirut is the easiest way to travel to Syria.

Beirut is only 115km from Damascus and the journey takes 2 to 4 hours, including the customs process.

If you book a Syria tour with Against the Compass, we will take care of your transfer from and to Beirut, no problem.

In the unlikely case you were traveling to Syria independently, know that there is no bus service but locals travel in shared taxis.

They leave from Charles Hélou bus station, which is in a very central location, in Gemmazyeh.

Shared taxis from Beirut to Damascus run all day long and I went there at 3pm and waited for no more than 15 or 20 minutes.

The cost per person is around 20USD.

If you go by yourself, you will pay 100USD.

Beirut to Damascus border crossing: Very straightforward.

On the Lebanese side, they barely check your passport and, on the Syrian side, they take around 20 minutes, as long as there are no people, of course.

First, they check your security clearance, then you purchase your visa at the bank counter and give your receipt to the immigration officer.

You only get a stamp, not a visa sticker.

After getting your Syrian visa and resuming your journey, you will go through several checkpoints, but you shouldn’t experience any problem.

Read: A travel guide to Beirut

2 – How to travel from Tripoli to Tartus

You can also travel to Syria from the border north of Tripoli.

Shared taxis to Tartus cost around 12 USD and they leave until 8pm from this statio.

It is only a 65km journey, so it should be fairly quick.

3 – How to travel from Amman (Jordan) to Syria

The border is finally open but the journey from Amman is longer (200km) and the border crossing takes more time.

If you want to enter Syria from Amman, pick-up may also be arranged.

4 – How to travel from Turkey to Syria

Today, that border is not possible to cross legally.

How to travel to Syria by air

Damascus has an international airport but there are a few things that you may wanna take into consideration before booking your flight.

1. The airport doesn’t have many connections, only with a few Middle Eastern cities such as Sharjah, Abu Dhabi, or Baghdad.
2. The only airlines operating in Syria are Cham Wings, Syrian Air, and Iraqi Airways, airlines the tickets of which can’t be purchased online, but you must book them at the respective office in cash.
3. Due to the situation in Syria, the airport in Damascus shuts down pretty often, so the chances of your flight being canceled are relatively high.

This is why I strongly recommend flying to Beirut instead.

Read: Lebanon – A 2-week itinerary

Is it safe to travel to Syria?

Is Syria safe?

Along with the visa, safety is the other big question mark for anyone traveling to Syria.

Look, the war is practically over in West Syria (the city of Idlib is the last actual war zone) and cities like Aleppo and Damascus are perfectly safe.

You see children roaming around and everything seems just fine now.

Moreover, the Old City of Damascus is full of military checkpoints where they check your bag and look at anyone who seems suspicious, so there is a high level of security and nothing has happened for a long time now.

Actually, I was in Damascus for Christmas and, for the first time since the beginning of the war, the streets of the Old City of Damascus (and Aleppo as well) were filled with Christmas lights and celebration.

The atmosphere was full of joy, happiness and both Muslims and Christians were celebrating such an event with very big enthusiasm (there is a huge Christian community in Damascus).

This can only mean that even the Syrians themselves believe the city is safe.

Long story short: I personally think that Syria is safe to visit but it will depend on where you go.

For a better understanding, read my analysis: Is Syria safe to visit?

Read: Is it safe to travel to Iraq

Which parts of  Syria are safe to travel?

Read my 100% safe travel itinerary for Syria.

Damascus, Homs, Aleppo, Latakia, Tartus, Krak De Chevaliers, and also Palmyra.

Still, keep in mind that this is a post-war zone, which means that it is highly unstable and things could change overnight.

The people – The Syrians

Language spoken in Syria

Levantine Arabic is the official language.

You should know that many English-speaking people left the country but you will always find someone who does. In any case, try to learn some Arabic before traveling to Syria.

Religion in Syria

Around 65% of the population are Sunni Muslims but, like in Lebanon, in Syria, there are many different religions, including a large Christian population. Bashar Al-Assad is Alawite, a Shia branch.

How do Syrians feel about tourism?

According to the UN, around 500,000 Syrians have been killed, nearly 5,000,000 escaped from the country and several more million who are still in the country need humanitarian assistance.

We are talking here about one of the worst humanitarian crises in the 21st century.

Like I said at the beginning, many people are skeptical about traveling to Syria, claiming or thinking that it may be disrespectful to all the people that have been affected somehow.

Well, what I think is that, before making any judgment, we should ask the actual Syrians living in Syria what do they think about it.

When visiting Syria, I have never talked to a single Syrian who was not happy at seeing a foreign tourist.

The ones who spoke English approached me, asking a lot of questions and showing their gratitude for visiting their country.

They don’t hesitate to talk to you about the crisis, the problems that it has caused, etc.

Hello, how are you?

Well, alive, thank God! – A random Syrian told me

However, I thought that wandering around Damascus as a tourist would be like being a celebrity. I mean, people were extremely nice and kind but it was not like when you travel in Pakistan, for example, where everybody stops you in the street to talk to you.

The main reason was that most people thought I was a journalist and the second was that Syrians have always had great international exposure, so seeing foreigners is something they are actually used to, with the only difference they haven’t seen many since 2010.

Long story short: Syrians are happy to see tourists.

Transportation: how to travel around Syria

Note: This info refers to 2018 when traveling in Syria independently was allowed.

You can travel around Syria by local buses and shared taxis.

I took the bus from Damascus to Aleppo, which takes more than 7 hours.

The reason is that the section of the road from Homs to Aleppo is not totally Government-controlled, so after Homs, they turn right and make a huge detour to get to Aleppo.

Update 2022: Today, the direct road from Damascus to Aleppo that goes through Idlib is finally under the control of the Government.

There is not much to say here, other than the roads of Syria are full of military checkpoints, which is what you may expect.

Your driver will keep your passport and he will handle everything for you, so don’t worry about that.

I also took the bus from Homs to Damascus and it was a very similar story.

From Aleppo to Homs I took a local shared taxi.

Seriously, buses run normally, smoothly and without any problem

In Damascus, this is the main bus station to go to Homs and Aleppo.

The station at Aleppo is quite far from the city center but you will see plenty of taxis just outside.

As per safety, the truth is that many people were being overprotective with me, always taking care that I was feeling safe and comfortable, so you should not worry about that. Most people taking the bus to Aleppo are from the army by the way.

Internet and connectivity in Syria

Wi-Fi – Internet works relatively well across the country. The hotels I stayed at had a good connection and you can also connect in most relatively good cafés and restaurants.

Mobile – I bought Syriatel and, for 7,000SYP, they gave me 2GB and some calls but, of course, prices may change. They only asked for my passport. I recommend you go to the official store. There is one next to Merjeh Square, right here: 33.513185, 36.29777.

Get a VPN for traveling in Syria

You should always use a VPN when you travel, especially when you connect to public Wi-Fi networks.

Your connection will be much safer. 

Moreover, you will be able to access content which is typically censored in Syria. 

I recommend ExpressVPN – Extremely easy to use, fast and cheap. 

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling.

What you need to know about money before traveling to Syria

In Syria, they use the Syrian Pound (SYP), a currency that has been fluctuating like crazy for the past 10 years.

Before the crisis, $1 equaled 50SYP.

In 2018, during my first visit, $1 equaled 490SYP.

Today, you can exchange $1 in the black market for up to 13,950SYP.

As a consequence, Syria is suffering from massive inflation and the problem is that most salaries haven’t increased accordingly.

Exchanging money in Syria

You can exchange both Euros (€) and USD ($) but USD can be exchanged at a better rate.

If you bring 100 USD notes, keep in mind that they only accept the new ones with the blue line.

If you have Syrian Pounds left when you leave, you can exchange them for Lebanese Pounds or USD in most exchange offices in Beirut, at the official bank rate, which means that it won’t be so good.

Where can you exchange Syrian Pounds?

The best is to exchange at the exchange offices you find before reaching the border. With our groups, we always exchange in a Lebanese town named Chtoura.

ATMs and credit cards in Syria

Because of the foreign sanctions, in Syria, you can neither pay by credit card nor using ATMs. You must bring all your money in cash.

Update 2024: Due to the current financial crisis, the same rule applies to Lebanon. If you are traveling to Syria from Lebanon, you must bring enough cash for visiting both countries.

How much does it cost to travel to Syria?

These are the prices of the most typical things:

• Lunch in a local restaurant: 50,000 to 80,000SYP
• Food in a nice restaurant with wine: 150,000 to 250,000SYP
• Breakfast (like hummus or ful): 35,000SYP
• National Museum: 25,000SYP
• Aleppo Citadel: 2,5000SYP
• Bus from Damascus to Aleppo: 50,000 to 70,000SYP
• Budget Hotel in Damascus: $35 to $45 for a private room
• Mid-range hotel in Damascus: $60 to $90 for a private room
• Taxis within cities: 40,000 to 60,000SYP
• Local shared taxi Aleppo to Homs: 100,000 to 150,000SYP

Responsible tourism and ethics

Syria is a post-war zone, where millions of people have lost their houses and relatives, much like Haiti, so please, be a sensitive tourist.

Don’t say war but crisis or situation instead

You will see that many Syrians themselves don’t really use the word war but they prefer to say other less harsh words.

Don’t take selfies with damaged buildings

Seriously, this is one of the most disrespectful things you could ever do and you would actually be an asshole if you did it.

Empathize with the locals

When you are in an area full of destroyed buildings be polite to the people, say hello, shake hands and just be nice with them.

Collaborate with the local economy

In Homs and Aleppo, you are likely to see small businesses open among all the ruins. Do buy things from them.

In Homs, I saw one small bakery shop in the practically destroyed souk; I couldn’t resist buying one kilo of sweets there, which I gave to a young boy that was looking for something among the trash.

Read: A travel guide to Iraqi Kurdistan

Are the Syrian cities really destroyed?

This seems to bring a lot of confusion, so let me explain it to you:

Damascus

Only the outskirts of Damascus are destroyed, as there was a bloody battle there. That area is off-limits to tourists.

The Old City and the new part of town remain intact.

Aleppo

A percentage of the Old City is destroyed, as well as some areas from outside the city.

Most of Aleppo isn’t damaged but some very important sites from the Old City, like the Great Mosque, are gone.

Nowadays, however, the city is being rebuilt and people are slowly coming back.

Homs

One of the most affected cities by the war.

Approximately 40% of the city is destroyed and that includes its bazaar, one of the liveliest and most important souqs in all the Middle East.

Palmyra

The Temple of Bell was destroyed by ISIS but Palmyra is a massive archaeological site and many of its wonders can still be seen.

Taking photos when you travel in Syria

You can take photos of everything except for one thing: military stuff.

Yes, it is very obvious but the problem is that there is military stuff everywhere, especially in Damascus.

In Damascus, it happened a few times that I took a picture of some cool building or whatever, from relatively far away, and didn’t realize there was a checkpoint right next to it.

Of course, the soldiers approached me but, after quickly checking my passport and my camera, very kindly, let me continue.

In Damascus Old City, there are checkpoints everywhere, so pay attention before taking any photos.

Don’t get off the beaten track in Syria, not yet

As of 2024, this section still is highly relevant.

Seriously, don’t.

Don’t do it because you are going to ruin it for everybody.

Syria just started opening to tourism, so stick to the main touristic areas.

I am telling you this because there was a German guy who went to the outskirts of Damascus to take photos of some destroyed buildings and he was put in jail for a week.

That was back in 2018, when independent travel in Syria was allowed.

Since then, booking a tour is required in order to get a visa for Syria so, even if you wanted to get off the beaten track, you would not be able to.

Accommodation: where to stay in Syria

Since the crisis, the Government of Syria has introduced a dual pricing policy in all hotels, in which foreigners pay more than the locals.

This has increased the rates substantially but you can still find many affordable options.

Where to stay in Damascus

Budget – Green Hotel – Single rooms cost 15USD and double 30USD. It was very clean, there was a heater, good Wi-Fi and the guy from the reception spoke English. It was here, just outside of the Old City: 33.510168. 36.298925.

Boutique Hotel – Beit al Mamlouka – A small hotel at the heart of the old city.

Top option – Beit al Wali – One of the best hotels in the city.

Luxury – Four Seasons – Crazy expensive, but the best hotel in Syria. Note that it’s not managed by Four Seasons anymore, even though they kept their name.

Where to stay in Aleppo

Mid-range – Aleppo Palace – Good, affordable option in Aleppo, with great views of the new part of town. It’s located right next to the I Love Aleppo sign.

In Aleppo, you can also find a Sheraton.

Where to stay in Homs

New Basman Hotel – One of the few options in Homs is this hotel that offers basic but comfortable rooms.

Where to stay in Al Mishtaya

Al Mishtaya is a Christian village near Krak de Chevaliers and the place where we stay when I bring groups into Syria.

They have a pretty good brand-new hotel named Vila Rosa Hotel.

Where to stay in Palmyra and Busra

Today, you can’t stay in any of them because there are no hotels.

The food and alcohol in Syria

In the last few years, I haven’t traveled to many countries that are famous for their food, but Syria definitely is.

Being an olive-oil-rich Mediterranean country, the ingredients used in their cuisine are fresh and similar to the ones we used in Spain, Italy, France, and Greece.

The food is actually pretty much the same as in Lebanon, with their own regional variations, of course.

From the classic hummus to kibbeh (local steak tartar), different sorts of grilled meat or a typical dish of Aleppo consisting of meatballs in cherry sauce, the food in Syria is so varied. 

For me, however, breakfast is the best part, as they always serve different variations of hummus and ful deep in super tasty olive oil and vegetables.

As per alcohol, you should know that Syria has a large Christian population, so alcohol is easily available, especially in the Christian district of the Old City of Damascus, where there is a street filled with bars and many liquor shops.

You can actually buy a $1 beer and drink it in the street!

More information for traveling in Syria

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Syria destination

• Travel Guide to Aleppo
• Syria Itinerary
• Is Syria Safe?

Travel guides to other countries in the Middle East

• Iran Travel Guide
• Palestine Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Oman
• Travel Guide to Lebanon
• Iraq Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Saudi Arabia
• Yemen Travel Guide

You will also like our Libya travel guide and Haiti travel guide.

You will also be interested in: Where in the Middle East is safe? and The most beautiful places in the Middle East.

I hope this Syria travel blog will help you to plan your trip. I will try to keep it updated but, if you have more updates, please let us know in the comments section. Thanks

Wanna travel to Syria with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Syria on:

September 15th to 27th, 2024

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Prior to 2010, Syria was one of the most touristic countries in the Middle East, receiving an average of more than 8 million tourists per year.

In 2011, however, an unfortunate war made Syria one of the most dangerous countries in the world, preventing travelers from venturing into an amazing destination with epic places to visit.

Nevertheless, few travelers know that, after several years of darkness, Syria is welcoming tourists again, and the reason is that some parts of the country are gaining significant stability, hence becoming safer for travelers.

This is a comprehensive analysis of how safe is Syria from a tourism perspective. From the latest updates to safety tips and a compelling region breakdown, Against the Compass is always your source.

Why travel to Syria with Against the Compass?

Our honest review of what is it like to visit Syria with Against the Compass, what is it that makes us unique, as well as testimonials from some of our customers.

Latest update: Is Syria safe now?

In March 2011, the Syrian Government decided to suppress the Arab Spring protests violently, an action that unleashed an armed conflict that later became a bloody civil war between tonnes of different groups supported by different foreign forces, including the USA, Iran, Russia, and Turkey.

With several million refugees and hundreds of thousands of dead civilians, the Syrian war is considered to be the worst humanitarian crisis in the 21st century, the legacy of which has left a country divided.

Today, the war is nearly over in many parts of Syria, but it has become a fragmented country made of different regions controlled by distinct armed and ethnic groups, including Al-Nusra, the Free Syrian Army, the Kurds, the Islamic State – composed of sleeping cells mostly hiding and operating in the Syrian desert – and even Turkey and the USA.

The areas controlled by the Government are safe to visit

Honestly speaking, Syria is still hugely chaotic, a real mess but, surprisingly, those areas controlled by the Syrian Government (Bashar al-Assad) are actually enjoying certain stability, safety-wise speaking, and that is why the Government decided to open their territories to foreign tourism.

These Government-controlled territories comprise practically all of west Syria, including popular places such as Damascus, Aleppo, Homs, Krak de Chevaliers, anywhere along the Mediterranean coast and also Palmyra.

Those cities are pretty safe nowadays, open to all travelers with a valid visa, which you can only obtain through a tour operator.

Is Syria safe due to the Israel-Gaza war in 2024?

Back in October 2023, when the war in Gaza started, the situation across several countries in the Middle East was full of uncertainty and highly unstable.

With more than a few war fronts opened in neighboring countries such as Syria or Iraq, nobody knew what this war could lead to, the reason why we decided to temporarily suspend all our Syria tours.

However, life in Syria goes on as usual, markets keep being at their fullest and fortunately, all reciprocal attacks between Israel and Syria have been exclusively targeting military areas, never civilians.

This is the reason why we are traveling back to Syria again.

How to sign up for a tour in Syria

The safest way to visit Syria is with a group and a certified guide who knows the latest security updates.

Our upcoming Syria Expeditions for 2024:

• Sep 15th to 27th, 2024 (13 days). APPLY NOW
• Oct 13th to 20th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW
• Dec 23rd to 30th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW

Is Syria safe to travel? A look into the Government’s advice

If we look into the Syria travel advice–, the FCDO advises against all travel to Syria, and claims that foreigners should leave by any practical means.

Is Syria dangerous for tourists?

The FCDO say that the situation in Syria remains volatile and dangerous, which is partly true, but only in those regions where the Government doesn’t have any sort of control, especially in the eastern part of the country, an area absolutely off-limits to tourists.

Regardless of your feelings about the current Syrian Government – we are not here to discuss politics – the areas controlled by them are currently safe to travel to, and no Syrian living in that part of Syria will tell you otherwise.

As I always mention in similar safety reports, there is always a certain logic behind the FCDO travel advice, but it barely relates to the actual reality and is typically based on unlikely worst-case scenarios.

That’s why, instead of trusting their over-cautious analysis, do talk to Syrians living in Damascus or Aleppo – not abroad – and travelers who have recently been there as well. You are likely to hear an opinion that doesn’t differ much from what you find in this Syria travel blog.

How safe is traveling to Syria from my personal experience

Since the beginning of the war, I have visited Syria three times, and I can only say positive things about it.

The people

On the one hand, Syrians are genuinely kind and happy to see tourists because they are a clear sign that Syria is becoming safer as a country, plus let’s not forget that tourism used to be an essential part of Syria’s economy.

Security in Syria

On the other hand, I can affirm that the security situation between 2018 and 2022 has drastically improved and proof of it is that, back in 2018, going through checkpoints was more way tedious than it is today.

In 2018, road checkpoints used to take ages and in Damascus, I remember the Syrian Army checking my backpack every now and then. In 2022, however, we managed to get through all checkpoints fairly quickly, making everything seem much more relaxed.

A curious fact to mention is that in 2022, the only checkpoint where I was asked for my passport was the Bosra checkpoint, which isn’t controlled by the Government but by the Free Syrian Army (FSA).

Is life back to normality in Syria?

Despite the abundance of ghost towns and destroyed buildings, life in Western Syria is slowly coming back to normality, visible in the overpacked souks and restaurants of Damascus, for example.

Homs and Aleppo have struggled much more than Damascus but a lot of rebuilding is ongoing, shops are reopening and, very slowly, Syrians are moving back to their hometowns.

It will take a long time for Syria to recover the beautiful life from before 2010, especially because half of the people fled abroad, plus there isn’t any money to rebuild the numerous destroyed buildings.

Nevertheless, the simple fact that this back-to-normal process has already started can only mean that Syria is becoming safer and that there is hope.

Personally, I found Venezuela extremely more dangerous than anywhere I’ve been in Syria.

Which parts of Syria are safe to visit?

Read: 1-week safe itinerary for Syria

Here’s an overview of where in Syria is safe to travel.

1 – Safe regions to visit in Syria

Is any part of Syria safe? – some people wonder. As I mentioned before, the safe areas to visit in Syria are those which are controlled by the Government.

Is Damascus safe?

Officially, the capital has always been one of the safest places in Syria – relatively speaking. While it’s true that the outskirts of the city are heavily bombed, both the old city and the new part of town are untouched, and the different streets and souks are back to life.

Actually, all travelers are absolutely wowed by how ordinary everything seems to be. Today, walking around Damascus on your own is completely safe.

Is Aleppo safe?

Liberated in 2017 from Al Nusra, the old city of Aleppo was largely destroyed.

People say that, before the crisis, Aleppo used to have the most beautiful souk in the Middle East. Sadly, most shops are closed nowadays but there is a lot of rebuilding going on and, compared to 2018, many small, family-owned businesses have begun to pop up.

Is Homs safe?

By far, Homs was the most affected city by the war, nearly half of it being completely destroyed.

When I first visited it in 2018, it was a deplorable, ghost town. The souk was gone and I could barely see anyone strolling the streets.

But during my second visit in 2022, the souk had been rebuilt and some parts of the city center felt relatively busy. But again, it will take ages for Homs to come back to its original beauty, since many of its districts are today nothing but pure rubble.

Is Krak de Chevaliers safe?

Krak de Chevaliers is a Crusader fortress and one of the most well-preserved medieval castles in the world. It used to be a major tourist attraction but during the crisis, it was taken by a branch of Al-Qaeda named Al Nusra before the Syrian Army took it back.

Luckily, the castle remained untouched, and foreign visitors are allowed to visit it again.

Is Maaloula safe?

Infamous for being the place where those nuns were kidnapped by Al Nusra, Maaloula is a historic, Christian town that was also taken by the jihadists in 2013, and recovered during the battle of Maaloula.

You can still see some destruction but pretty much all churches and monasteries have been rebuilt and Maaloula is welcoming tourists again.

More safe places to visit in Syria

There are more places in Syria that are safe to visit:

• Hama: the city with the 17 norias
• Al Mishtaya and Marmarita: lovely Christian villages close to Krak
• Sidnaya: Christian town close to Maaloula
• Tartous and Latakia: the two main coastal cities
• Arwad: the only inhabited island in Syria

2 – Relatively safe areas to visit in Syria

The following places are actually safe to visit but they have some particularities:

Is Palmyra safe?

The city and archaeological site of Palmyra lie almost 300km east of Damascus. It was taken by ISIS on two separate occasions (2014 and 2016). They blew up the Temple of Bel, but the site is huge and most of its structures are still standing.

The reason why Palmyra is in the relatively-safe section is that ISIS cells are not that far away, and a few attacks have been reported – always targeting the army – along the road that takes you to Palmyra.

The situation, however, is calmer now, there is a crazy amount of security along the way, plus all tourists must be escorted by an army member.

The archaeological site of Palmyra is guarded by the Russian Army. They are based in Qalaat Fakhr ad-Din al-Maani (Palmyra Castle), the fortress that overlooks the ruins, and a former tourist spot for watching sunset.

Is Bosra safe?

Bosra is a southern city located close to the border with Jordan.

It’s a peaceful town, and pretty much the only safe place to visit that isn’t controlled by the Syrian Government but by the Free Syrian Army, an armed group representing the Syrian people who oppose the Syrian regime.

The FSA had an important role in fighting the Syrian Government during the war but now, they are trying to make peace with each other and, in exchange for controlling that territory, they agreed to allow the Russian army’s presence.

Bosra is safe to visit but it’s quite sensitive and most travelers venture here just to visit the Roman theater.

3 – Dangerous areas to visit in Syria

The dangerous regions to visit in Syria have one thing in common, which is that you can’t visit them, even if you wanted to.

Is Idlib safe?

Being almost an enclave within the Government-controlled west part of Syria, the city of Idlib is an area dominated by Al Nusra. Their domination, however, is merely symbolic because it is actually occupied by Turkey, for real.

No kidding, when you get close to Idlib (and you will on your way to Aleppo), you will receive a Turkish mobile network, along with an SMS literally saying Welcome to Turkey.

Nobody knows which kind of deal is going on there but, in my understanding, it seems the Government has stopped fighting for Idlib, and Turkey began annexing it. In Idlib, they don’t use the Syrian Lira anymore but the Turkish, and their inhabitants are not allowed to enter Syria but they can enter Turkey. It’s not on the Western news, nobody talks about it, but it’s real.

In any case, on your way to Aleppo, despite being so close to Idlib, the situation is safe because the road is controlled by the Government, and they don’t even allow cars to stop.

Is Raqa safe?

The former capital of ISIS is absolutely off-limits to tourists.

While in Syria, I tried to figure out the current situation of Raqa but never managed to get a convincing response. Apparently, part of Raqa province is under the Government’s control, while the rest is under that of the Kurdish forces. Some people claim, nevertheless, that it’s still a dangerous place because ISIS sleeping cells are still a thing there.

Is Rojava safe?

Rojava – officially named the Autonomous Administration of North and East Syria – is a region of Syria that could be essentially understood as Syrian Kurdistan. It gained its autonomy as a result of several battles during the war, and here you can read a fantastic explanation of it.

Rojava is still a turbulent region with on and off conflict. For example, in February 2022, ISIS committed an attack on al-Sina Prison, located in a city within Rojava.

In any case, Rojava is absolutely off-limits to tourists now.

Tips: How to stay safe in Syria

Travel with a guide and a group

Traveling with a group and a local guide who knows the latest security updates will make your Syria trip much safer.

In any case, in order to get a visa for Syria, you must travel with a group and for that, Against the Compass has several scheduled groups per year.

Our upcoming Syria EXPEDITIONS

• Sep 15th to 27th, 2024 (13 days). APPLY NOW
• Oct 13th to 20th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW
• Dec 23rd to 30th, 2024 (8 days). APPLY NOW

LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR SYRIA TOURS

Use travel insurance that covers Syria

In a country like Syria, where safety is the #1 priority, traveling with proper insurance is a must.

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Syria + COVID-19.

5% discount if purchasing via this link

Don’t talk about politics

Locals are not allowed to say anything bad about the Government, and neither are foreigners.

According to many Syrians, walls in Syria have ears, so I recommend staying away from political conversations.

Don’t venture into sensitive areas

In the unlikely event that you are wandering around Syria on your own, don’t go to sensitive areas, and not only for your safety, but also because you risk getting arrested, as happened to a certain backpacker who I prefer not to name.

Basically, he managed to reach the front between the Government and I don’t know which other group, a foolish act that got him arrested for a week.

Is Syria safe to visit for solo female travelers?

Is Syria a safe country for women travelers?

Similar to neighboring Lebanon, Syria is an ethnically, religiously, and culturally diverse country, also home to a large secular population and a lot of Christians.

What I want to say is that Syrians are used to dealing with all sorts of people, meaning that bumping into a bunch of liberal women strolling down the streets of Damascus isn’t a rare thing to see so, unless you are visiting pretty conservative areas, you can dress up as you please, relatively speaking, of course.

Moreover, while it’s true that many people do fast during Ramadan, many Muslims don’t, plus a lot of restaurants keep their doors open, and the reason is that the relatively secular population in Syria is quite large.

Traveling as a woman in Syria is, obviously, more challenging than if you are a man – like in any other country – but what I can tell you is that popular destinations such as Morocco, Egypt or even Jordan are way more challenging than Syria, from a solo woman perspective.

In any case, solo travel isn’t really allowed in Syria, but you must be with a local guide.

Is traveling to Syria safe for Americans?

Syrians are generally kind-hearted people who don’t make judgments based on nationalities.

While it’s true that many Syrians blame – partly – the USA for what happened in the country recently, they also know that American tourists have nothing to do with the US Government and that they visit Syria just to learn about the conflict, meet beautiful Syrians and visit all their historical gems.

If you want to know how to travel to Syria as an American, check our visa guide.

Conclusion: Is Syria safe for tourists?

It’s important to keep in mind that the situation in the areas controlled by the Syrian Government are not entirely safe, but relatively safe, so always pay attention to your surroundings and do your own research before going there. Against the Compass is not responsible for any potential, unfortunate event related to the current crisis.

More information for traveling safely in Syria

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Remember to check our upcoming tours: Syria Tours run by Against the Compass

All our guides to Syria

• Syria Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Aleppo
• Syria Itinerary

Check more safety guides

• Is Afghanistan Safe?
• Is Iran Safe?
• Is Iraq Safe?
• Is Lebanon Safe?
• Is Mali Safe?
• Is Mauritania Safe?
• Is Middle East Safe?
• Is Oman Safe?
• Is Pakistan Safe?
• Is Sudan Safe?
• Is Tunisia Safe?

Dreamy landscapes and beaches, world-class architectural delights and the most authentic West African culture in the heart of the Caribbean.

Few travelers know about any of the places to visit in Haiti, yet this is truly the most unique destination in the Americas, packed with exciting sites offering thrilling backpacking adventures.

After spending 10 traveling around the country, here’s a comprehensive 7-day, safe itinerary containing the best things to see and do in Haiti.

For all practical information including visas, safety, local culture, etc., check our travel guide to Haiti.

Accommodation: where to stay at the places you visit in Haiti

Where to stay in Santo Domingo

Near the station for buses to Haiti: Torres Apart Studio

Although this place is nothing special, it’s relatively well-priced and ideally located next to the bus terminal for buses going to Haiti.

Check on Booking.com

In the Zona Colonial, near tourist sites: La Puerta Roja Guest House

Cheap, and very well located. This beautiful guest house is an excellent place to stay.

Check on Booking.com

Where to stay in Cap-Haïtien: Habitation des Lauriers

This is the best place to stay in Cap-Haïtien. The rooms are basic and a bit expensive, but that’s what you always get in Haiti, and this accommodation offers the added benefit of having staff who speak English. You can also pay by card and exchange money.

The views are amazing too, overlooking Cap-Haïtien.

Check on Booking.com

Where to stay in Port-au-Prince: Allamanda Hotel

Pétionville is the safest area in the capital, and the only place where you should book a hotel.

This one is one of the best choices in town.

Check on Booking.com

Things to do with Haiti in a 7-day itinerary

Here’s everything you can visit in Haiti in 1 week.

Map of things to do in Haiti

Day 1 – Traveling from Santo Domingo to Cap-Haïtien

I overlanded into Haiti from Dominican Republic and that’s what most travelers do, so our Haiti itinerary will focus on this area.

In any case, remember that both Port-au-Prince and Cap-Haïtien have an international airport with connections to different cities in the USA – especially Miami – but flights tend to be more expensive than any flight into Santo Domingo.

The best way to travel from Dominican Republic to Haiti is by taking the direct bus that runs from Santo Domingo to Cap-Haïtien via Santiago de los Caballeros.

A bus also goes to Port-au-Prince, but this Haiti travel itinerary will instead focus on the other route.

Step 1: Head to the bus terminal at least one day before your intended date of departure

The bus company going to Haiti is called Caribbean Tours, and the terminal is located here.

Buses to Cap-Haïtien depart in the morning, between 7am and 8:30am.

Tickets do sell out, so try to get there at least one day before to book your ticket and find out the actual time of departure.

A one-way ticket costs 30-35 USD. This can be paid in Dominican Pesos too.

Step 2: On the day of departure, go to the terminal to catch the bus and pay the respective border fees

To exit Dominican Republic by land, some border fees apply and you must pay these before boarding the bus.

Border fees cost 37 USD, and must be paid in USD.

If you don’t have US dollars on you, there’s a money exchange office on the first floor of the bus terminal, where they will exchange your Dominican Pesos into USD at a pretty fair rate.

Note that the office will most likely be closed by the time you get there, so make sure to buy your $ the day before.

The bus journey officially takes 7 – 8 hours although it can easily take up to 12. Factors for potential delays include border crossing mishaps, but also bus breakdowns.

The bus has a pretty long stopover in a city called Santiago de los Caballeros.

They do also serve a meal on board consisting of Dominican-style grilled meat and rice, which I found to be particularly awful.

Step 3: Dominican Republic-Haiti border crossing

The border is a bit chaotic but there’s an attendant/tour leader on the bus who will probably guide you through, including paying the mentioned border fees.

On the Haitian side, some locals will offer to help you with filling out the forms – looking for a tip – but just ignore them.

Step 4 – Arriving in Cap-Haïtien

The bus will drop you at this terminal.

I arrived at around 7pm, when it was already dark. Actually, it was really dark, since the street lights weren’t on, which happens pretty much all over Haiti.

At the station, you’ll find plenty of motorbike taxis but the hotel I stayed at, Habitation des Lauriers, is just 1.7km from here, so I decided to walk.

Day 2 – Exploring Cap-Haïtien

Cap Haïtien is the second most important city after Port-au-Prince, housing the top tourist attractions in all Haiti.

Furthermore, from a historical perspective, the area is far more significant than the capital, for the following reasons:

1. It was here in Cap-Haïtien – in Bord de Mer de Limonade, just outside of the city – where Colombus built the first settlement ever in the New World.
2. The area was the epicentre of the slaves’ revolt against their French overlords.
3. Cap Haïtien served as the French headquarters during colonial rule.

From the Habitation des Lauriers hotel, you get the best views of the city’s skyline, so there isn’t a better place to start your day.

Other than that, Cap-Haïtien is a pleasant city to walk around while checking out some pretty cool local markets and old colonial French architecture.

Things to do in Cap-Haïtien

Place d’Armes & Notre Dame Cathedral: the central square with its respective cathedral, colonial buildings and gingerbread houses.

Iron Market: East of Place d’Armes, the Iron Market covers several streets of the city grid. It’s a bustling, fascinating market, something you won’t see anywhere else in the Americas, and very similar to local markets in West Africa.

Around Place de la Résistance: This is a pretty random place that won’t be mentioned in any guidebooks, but at the entrance to the city, just before reaching the bridge, there’s a huge outdoor market, one that tourists never see and the best place in Haiti for people-watching. This market is located almost right on the beach, and it reflects the typical images we see of Haiti on the news: absolutely massive piles of rubbisha being dragged away by the ocean waves.

Half-day trip from Cap-Haïtien: Bois Caïman

Bois Caïman is one of the most important places in Haiti.

On 14th August 1791, a group of black slaves from the sugar plantations of Cap-Haïtien and nearby areas gathered at a site called Bois Caïman to perform a Vodou ceremony, while also planning a mass uprising that quickly turned into the Haitian Revolution which freed the country from its French overlords.

Bois Caïman is located 10km from Cap-Haïtien.

How to visit Bois Caïman

If you want to do it the backpacking – hard – way, first take a tap tap towards Vaudreuil. From there, it’s a 2km walk to the actual village, but you can also catch a taxi motorbike.

In the village, there’s a painting and memorial of the Haitian Revolution and you can visit the actual cave where the Vodou ceremony took place, and where rituals are still held.

Day 3 – Day trip to Citadelle la Ferrière

In my opinion, Citadelle la Ferrière is the most beautiful place to visit in Haiti.

Less than 20km from Cap Haïtien, there’s a place called Milot, a rural town home to an absolutely astonishing fortress built on top of a mountain with superb views of the mountains around the region.

This is the largest fortress in the whole American continent, and a symbol of Haiti’s independence, built by black slaves who had gained their freedom – the first of its kind – and the reason Citadelle la Ferrière is today a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the most famous place to visit in Haiti.

It was built in the 19th century, commissioned by Haitian revolutionary Henri Christophe, and aiming to at thwart potential French invasions.

How to get to Citadelle la Ferrière

1 – Take a tap tap to Milot

The tap tap station for Milot is located here.

It costs around 100 Gourdes per person.

2 – Arriving in Milot and ticket office

Upon arriving in Milot, you will be approached by particularly intense young men on their motorbikes wanting to take you up to the Citadel. They won’t leave you alone.

The ticket office for going up to the fortress is 10-15 minutes away from the tap tap drop-off point.

The guys on the motorbikes will most likely follow you all the way there, insisting on taking you to the top.

The entrance fee to the Citadel is 1000 Gourdes.

3 – Going up to the Citadel.

Going to the top of the Citadel on foot is possible, but it would take a few hours.

Instead, you can hire someone to take you there on a motorbike, and a round-trip ticket should cost no more than 1000 Gourdes but you’ll probably have to bargain a bit.

Motorbikes can’t make it all the way to the top, so the last 1 or 2 kilometres must be done on foot. Lazier travelers can opt to ride a horse too.

Day 4 – Hiking to Labadee

Many travelers agree that Labadee is the most beautiful place to visit in Haiti.

Labadee is the bit of coast west of Cap-Haïtien, on the other side of the small peninsula.

This is the best stretch of coast in the country, not only for its white-sand beaches and crystal-clear waters, but also because it’s impeccably clean and plastic-free, something hard to find in Haiti.

Labadee is in fact a pretty laid back settlement, more notably known for being home to a tourist resort named after the village.

This resort is an essential part of the itinerary for many Caribbean cruises sailing past the islands.

But don’t worry, the resort is a bit far from the village and nobody is allowed to enter unless they are a cruise passenger. Moreover, cruise passengers are either not interested in leaving the resort or they just think it’s too dangerous.

Actually, you won’t even notice there’s a resort here unless you climb one of the hills or come from Cap-Haïtien on foot.

How to visit Labadee

The 10km hike that follows the coast from Cap-Haïtien to Labadee is an excellent day trip, and one of the best things to do in Haiti.

By the way, you can also get there by motorbike taxi, but you’ll be missing a lot of things on the way.

To hike to Labadee, you’ll first have to climb a hill through a slum, so there are no marked streets either, and it’s easy to get lost. In my experience, however, locals were pretty helpful in pointing me in the right direction.

You need to start climbing somewhere around here.

Once you leave the slum, you’ll get to the main road, and then you just need to follow the trail.

Things to do in Labadee

As mentioned, Labadee is a small settlement. There’s a small centre, the commercial area where locals gather and you can get a drink.

From there, local boats depart to different beaches and settlements in the peninsula. A one-way ride costs the equivalent of 1 or 2 USD.

I took the boat to a beach named Belly Beach. There’s a bar here, where you can order drinks and seafood. It wasn’t busy when I was there, and everyone was either wealthy Haitians or crew members from the cruise ship.

Day 5 – Travel from Cap-Haïtien to Port au Prince

I recommend visiting Port-au-Prince only if you have a good local contact, otherwise, I think it’s too dangerous to go.

Everyone in Cap-Haïtien will think that you are crazy wanting to travel to Port-au-Prince.

Maybe they’re right, I don’t know.

They will even say it’s not possible to travel there by land, declaring that road access into the capital is controlled by the gangs.

I actually believed them, so I decided to flew in instead.

Domestic flights are run by a local airline called Sunrise Airways, and the Cap-Haïtien – Port-au-Prince route is a short 30-minute flight.

However, it was after booking my ticket that I learn from my local contact in Port-au-Prince that buses do run regularly between the major cities, although they take a different route.

In any case, remember that the bus journey takes around 9 hours.

Day 6 – Port-au-Prince

Remember that there is basically a civil war going on in Port-au-Prince. Some places like Pétionville are safe but to go further afield, you must go with someone who knows their way.

The capital of Haiti is one of the most chaotic cities I’ve ever been. It is said that the city’s infrastructure can only accommodate a quarter of its total population, and what existing infrastructure there is isn’t great either, built in a city that has been crumbling since the earthquake in 2010.

Port-au-Prince is dusty and extremely noisy, with piles of rubbish and extreme poverty filling all the streets.

To be completely honest, this isn’t a destination for most travelers although Against the Compass readers may find a certain appeal in its chaos, art scene and particular nightlife.

Pétionville: Originally a residential suburb in the mountains, Pétionville flourished after the 2010 earthquake, becoming the most prominent neighbourhood in Port-au-Prince, housing the best restaurants and hotels. This is a safe area to walk around, and one where you can enjoy a lively market, a beautiful street where they sell pieces of local art, and numerous bars and restaurants.

Atis Rezistants: A workshop where they create art out of trash, mainly Haitian Vodou-related pieces. This was one of the most interesting places to visit in Haiti.

The National Pantheon Museum: Among other things, this museum features the anchor from Santa Maria, the largest boat used during Christopher Columbus’ expedition to the New World, back in 1492. Remember that the first place there ever set foot on was in today’s Haiti.

Check our travel guide for more information.


Cité Soleil: The poorest slum in all of the Americas and one of the largest in the world.

How to visit Cité Soleil

The most infamous place to visit in Haiti is Cité Soleil.

Cité Soleil is perhaps the most dangerous place in the Americas, and far more dangerous that infamous destinations such as Syria, Yemen or Afghanistan. The reason is that today, Cité Soleil is a battlefield for gangs trying to kill each other on an almost daily basis.

Despite the current situation, however, I did visit Cité Soleil with the help of a local fixer who personally knows the gangs controlling the area, and I actually had the chance to meet the sub-chief of G-PEP.

They showed me around the slum, we had a few beers with some gang members then left after 2 hours.

2 things I want to highlight:

Firstly, that I’ve never felt so intimated in my life as, the time I visited Cité Soleil. Upon arriving at the main gang checkpoint to enter the slum, a group of extremely young Haitians came running towards us, but as soon as they saw our fixer, they all calmed down.

It’s important to highlight that unlike checkpoints in Iraq for example, these Haitians do actually use their guns every other day.

Second, kindly note that I won’t be sharing my fixer’s contact details as I don’t want Cité Soleil to become a playground for backpackers since eventually, someone will get shot and I really don’t want to be involved. Street shootings do occur every every day and stray bullets are a thing.

Day 7 – Mirelabais and Dominican Republic

Unless you wish to keep exploring Haiti beyond what is included in this Haiti travel itinerary, on day 7 of the tour, I recommend going back to Dominican Republic.

However, instead of getting a direct bus to Santo Domingo, I recommend doing it the backpacking way through Mirebalais and the Belladères border, so you can to see another, more rural side to the country.

Step 1: Get a bus to Mirelabais.

Buses run all day long, starting early in the morning. The station is located here.

Step 2: Get on a tap tap to Lascahobas.

You can find a taxi to take you to the border, but we couldn’t find a public tap tap.

Step 3: Get a final tap tap to the actual border.

No secrets, you’ll easily find the necessary transportation.

Step 4: Cross the border on foot.

On the Haitian side, you don’t have to pay any exit fees but on the Dominican side, a fee of 10 USD applies. I found this border to be very corrupt, so make sure you pay at the official stall, and get an actual receipt. The police may ask for it later.

Step 5: Bus from Elias Pina to Santo Domingo.

Elias Pina is a 20-minute walk from the border, maybe a bit more. There’s not much to see in this town, but it has a lively market and a very local feel. It’s easy to find transportation to Santo Domingo but you might want to spend the night here, or travel somewhere else instead. One piece of advice, however: I took the last bus to Santo Domingo, departing at 6pm. The ride was long and they dropped me off in the middle of the night at a very, very sketchy area of Santo Domingo, where muggings are not uncommon.

More information

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Haiti destination

• Haiti Travel Guide

Check travel tips to the following offbeat countries:

• Mali
• Libya
• Syria
• Yemen
• Afghanistan
• Somalia

Other Related Travel Guide Articles:

• How to visit Angel Falls
• How to visit Los Llanos
• Venezuela Travel Guide

Wanna travel to Venezuela with Against the Compass?

Join us on a 2-week adventure across Canaima National Park, Los Llanos, Mérida and the Caribbean coast.

January 8th to 21st, 2025

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Canaima National Park (Parque Nacional de Canaima) is a national park that spreads out across the Gran Sabana region of Bolívar State, in south-eastern Venezuela.

The park has been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, mainly due to the table mountains – locally known as tepui – that cover 65% of its surface area, constituting a unique bio-geological entity.

Canaima National Park, however, is more popularly known for being home to the world’s tallest uninterrupted waterfall, a 979-meter drop flowing from the top of Auyantepui, one of the many tepuis this park national is famous for among geologists and biologists alike.

This waterfall is called Angel Falls, or Salto del Ángel in Spanish, and has today become the No. 1 tourist attraction in all Venezuela.

In this guide, you will learn how to plan your trip to Angel Falls and and Canaima National Park.

How to get to Angel Falls and Canaima National Park

Canaima is actually a village, or more precisely, an indigenous settlement built in the middle of the jungle, on the shores of Lake Canaima. It’s inhabited by the local indigenous group, the Pemon, who live across Venezuela, Guyana and Brazil, although mainly in the Venezuelan Gran Sabana.

There are no roads connecting with the village so, as of today, the only way to travel to Canaima is by flying in from Caracas.

How to get to Canaima from Caracas

Conviasa is the only airline flying from Caracas to Canaima, operating 2 weekly flights between both destinations: Thursday and Sunday.

This means that your stay will either be from Thursday to Sunday, or from Sunday to Thursday.

Obviously, you can stay longer if you want to but technically, camping is strictly forbidden, plus accommodation is ridiculously expensive, so the length of your stay is completely up to you and the rate you manage to negotiate with your campsite.

How to book your flight ticket from Caracas to Venezuela

One of the difficulties of traveling to Venezuela is that you can’t book your domestic flights online. Instead, you have to go to the actual airline office at the airport and purchase your ticket in cash.

That or hire a local travel agency to do it for you, for an additional fee.

I paid around 150 USD for a round-trip ticket from Caracas to Canaima, from Sunday to Thursday, but prices may change depending on the season.

Where to stay in Canaima and how to book your accommodation

Travelers making a trip to Angel Falls are technically required to book accommodation in Canaima for their entire stay.

To be honest, upon arrival, there isn’t anybody checking whether you’ve already booked accommodation or not, but since camping is not allowed, you’ll have to stay in a lodge anyways, and so booking in advance is highly recommended.

Today, there are around 10-15 lodges scattered along the shores of Lake of Canaima.

To book a room, just contact the property directly.

Typically, the lodges all only sell 4 or 5-day packages that tend to include:

• Airport pick up
• Accommodation
• All meals
• Trip to Angel Falls (this could be either an overnight trip or a day trip)
• Half-day trip around Canaima Lake

Note that prices are always per person.

Except for 2 or 3 lodges, all of them try to attract the Venezuelan elite, charging similar sums to 5-star hotels in European cities, although they are far less luxurious.

Most popular luxury lodges in Canaima

Some of the most popular luxury lodges are:

• Waku Lodge
• Campamento Tapuy Lodge
• Campamento Canaima
• Ara Merú Lodge
• Waka Wená

These lodges dominate the accommodation scene in Canaima, all of them charging around $1600 per person for the previously mentioned package.

Mid-range lodges in Canaima

Then, there are 2 campsites which are a little bit cheaper but still far exceeding any backpacking budget, charging around $1000 for your stay:

• Morichal Lodge
• Campamento Parakaupa

Budget campsite in Canaima

The only proper budget campsite in Canaima is Campamento Wey TuPu, which is run by a Pemon family, unlike most other lodges, which are run either by people from Caracas or by foreigners.

That’s where I stayed, and I couldn’t have been happier.

While it’s true that the rooms and facilities were very modest and basic, I felt I was giving something directly to the local community, plus the local family was absolutely lovely and accommodating.

Moreover, the day you visit Angel Falls, you will be sleeping on a hammock right in front of the waterfall, and you will be staying at the same place, eating the same food and using the same toilet as people who paid $1500 to stay in one of the luxury lodges.

In Wey TuPu, I paid $480 for the whole package, excluding flights and the entrance fee to the park, which was $40.

Warning: The Lodge Mafia in Canaima National Park
Depending on the week or season, you won’t be able to book your flight from Caracas to Canaima with Conviasa unless you have a reservation in one of the fancy luxury lodges. The reason for this is that they have an agreement with the airline under which they get the right to reserve all seats for themselves. This means that if you’ve made a reservation at the indigenous lodge of Wey TuPu, the airline might potentially reject your booking, as sad as it sounds.

Best time to visit Angel Falls and Canaima

Best season for your trip to Angel Falls and Canaima National Park: June to November

June to November is the rainy season, when Angel Falls is at its fastest-flowing.

Dry season: December to May

December is when the dry season starts and the later you travel to Canaima, the less water you’ll find, to the extent that at the very end of the dry season, the boats might not even depart to Angel Falls due to the low level of the river.

I visited Canaima in the month of January. There wasn’t a lot of water but everything was pretty amazing anyway. Another advantage is that you always get clear skies, while during the rainy season, Angel Falls can be shrouded in clouds and mist.

How to plan trip to Angel Falls: Things to do in Canaima National Park

Typically, this is the itinerary most lodges will be offering you, including Wey TuPu.

Day 1 – Arrival and tour around Canaima Lake

After lunch, your guide will probably take you around Canaima Lagoon on the canoe, visiting impressive waterfalls such as Salto del Hacha or El Sapo, with an opportunity to hike just behind the water curtain, which is pretty amazing.

Day 2 – Trip to Angel Falls

Trips to Angel Falls are always made in a canoe that can fit up to 10 passengers.

The whole boat trip takes around 5 hours, with a picnic stop included.

Remember that at the end of the dry season, the trip can take longer and you are likely to walk for the last kilometers.

There are a few campsites near the waterfall, all of them pretty basic and featuring a few dozen hammocks. Some of the fancy lodges – like Waku Lodge – have their own campsite offering a bit more comfort, but not all of them. Customers from Ara Merú for example, were staying in the same site as us.

Day trip or overnight stay?
Some campsites offer the possibility of visiting Angel Falls on a day trip, but I think that’s a big mistake since you’ll basically be spending the whole day in a canoe, with little time to enjoy one of the most amazing natural wonders in the world.

Day 3 – Hike to Angel Falls viewpoint and return to Canaima

After breakfast, most travelers will hike up to a viewpoint located nearly at the foot of Angel Falls.

The hike takes around 2.5 hours (round-trip).

After that, you’ll head back to your campsite for lunch, and then back to Canaima on the canoe.

Day 4 – Free day for extra activities

If you are in Canaima from Thursday to Sunday, you’ll be departing on day 4, but if you’re there from Sunday to Thursday, you will have day 4 to keep enjoying the national park.

Most travelers just sit around and relax for the entire day, while others climb one of the tepuis which are close by. There’s also the option of doing a helicopter tour over Angel Falls, but that costs $500 per passenger.

I chose to spend the entire day walking around the lake and the village, where I got a chance to observe a tapir that had just sneaked into town.

Day 5 – Departure

The final day is departure day to Caracas.

How much does a trip to Angel Falls and Canaima cost?

Since all the various campsites will sell you the whole package, the total cost for traveling to Canaima is pretty straightforward to calculate:

Flight ticket: Around $150
Entrance fee to Canaima National Park: $40
Accommodation: from $480 to $2000

More information for traveling Canaima National Park and Angel Falls

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Bring your own alcohol

Alcohol is crazy expensive in Canaima, like $4 for a 20cl beer bottle at the supermarket.

I strongly recommend bringing whatever you want to drink inside your checked-in bag. I don’t know how it works in other lodges but in ours, Wey TuPu, they allowed us to put our beers in the fridge.

Is there internet in Canaima?

There isn’t any internet data but the Wi-Fi in the different lodges works OK.

Is Canaima very touristy?

It’s a touristy place, yes, but due to the hefty price tag and the current situation in Venezuela, there aren’t a lot of people, or at least it didn’t feel that way during my visit.

As a traveler, I am not particularly happy about what Canaima has become – like some sort of an eco-park for the wealthiest Venezuelans – but perhaps it’s precisely that exclusivity that has managed to keep Canaima free from the crowds.

All guides and articles for traveling in Venezuela destination

• How to visit Los Llanos
• Venezuela Travel Guide

Other Related Travel Guide Articles:

• Haiti Travel Guide
• Haiti Itinerary

Wanna travel to Venezuela with Against the Compass?

Join us on a 2-week adventure across Canaima National Park, Los Llanos, Mérida and the Caribbean coast.

January 8th to 21st, 2025

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Los Llanos is a wet ecosystem, a massive area of seasonally flooded plains that spread across Colombia and Venezuela, characterized by their extensive savannas, unique fauna, and a cowboy-like culture palpable in their local folklore and the raising of cattle.

I had the chance to visit Los Llanos for 4 days during my last trip to Venezuela, and it was very different from anything I had experienced before.

In this guide, I want to show you how to visit Los Llanos independently.

Why travel to Los Llanos in Venezuela

From Canaima National Park to the Orinoco Delta, Venezuela is packed with natural highlights, but none of them surprised me as much as Los Llanos.

Imagine walking across the wild, wet plains – alone, with a simple stick and a local guide, crossing paths with 4 and 5-meter anacondas, while literally jumping over crocodiles.

Show, not tell, check my Instagram Highlights – look for anaconda safari – at @againstthecompass, and you’ll know what I mean.

The Venezuelans from these lands – the llaneros – grew up among this fauna, they’ve been walking over the marshes since they were tiny kids, and that’s why they can offer such raw and authentic safaris, something unheard of in any other country offering experiences of this kind.

If a safari such as this was offered in any other country with mass tourism, like Tanzania or Kenya, I’m pretty sure things wouldn’t be the same, but the magic of backpacking in Venezuela is that the rules aren’t really set in stone, allowing plenty of flexibility for the most intrepid adventurers.

Los Llanos also boasts with thousands of different types of crocodiles, a massive population of capibaras – locally known as chigüires – and hundreds of bird species. 

Piranha fishing is also a big thing in Los Llanos and, if you are lucky, you might also spot one of the weirdest animals in the world: a giant anteater – I was fortunate to see one pretty close up but only for 3 seconds.

Add to this their cattle-raising culture and the gorgeous flat lands, and you have one of the best places to visit in Venezuela.

By the way, the best time of year to experience the local culture and folklore is around March 19th, the day the Festival of Alorza takes place.

How to plan your visit to Los Llanos

Visiting Los Llanos isn’t a lot different from doing a safari in Kenya.

It’s about choosing the right accommodation and spending your day searching for fauna.

To do this, the best way to experience Los Llanos is by staying at one of the several hatos found across the region.

What is a hato?

It’s like a local farmhouse, or a local ranch, usually extending for thousands of hectares and home to all the animals Los Llanos is known for.

Most hatos are exclusively used for cattle raising but a few of them have opened to tourism, offering accommodation and tours around their lands.

By the way, when you visit Los Llanos, you are likely to see many farmhouses along the road, but not all of these are hatos. Hatos typically refer to those huge ranches that cover a certain number of hectares, hence they usually belong to the wealthiest local families. The smaller farmhouses are simply called fincas.

How to find the best hato to stay in Los Llanos

When I visited Los Llanos, I stayed in two different hatos, each one offering a very different experience, and choosing the right one will depend on your objectives.

Best hato for local culture: Hato Cristero

Hato Cristero is a family-owned hato that has been run by the same family for 9 generations, founded in 1888 by a man named Humberto, a name which has been inherited by the first son of each one of those generations.

The family is extremely lovely, welcoming and accommodating.

It’s important to note that you’ll be interacting with the actual family all the time. During my visit, I met the grandfather, father, daughters, sons, uncles… The whole family lives there.

Even some members from their staff have been there for decades.

For example, both the gardener and the cook have been working and living in Hato Cristero for 30 years at least.

Visiting Hato Cristero is the best way to experience the traditional regional culture.

However, there’s a downside to Hato Cristero, which is that they don’t have a lot of fauna. I mean, they do have capibaras, crocodiles, anacondas and hundreds of birds species, but it’s only a tiny fraction of what other hatos can offer.

In Hato Cristero, I did see crocodiles and capibaras but unfortunately, I didn’t spot any anacondas, while in the other hato, I saw more than 15.

Moreover, keep in mind that staying at Hato Cristero is expensive, with prices starting at around 150 USD a night although this includes all meals, tours around the hato and 5-star accommodation (it’s pretty fancy), so you get what you pay for.

You can contact them on Instagram at @hatocristero.

Best hato for fauna: Hato El Cedral

If your objective is just spotting fauna, don’t think twice, head to El Cedral.

Hato El Cedral is the largest hato in Los Llanos. It was opened to the public in 1987 but has been serving as a hato since the 19th century.

This hato is home to thousands and thousands of capybaras, caymans, small crocodiles, anacondas and even giant anteaters.

Seriously, there’s so much fauna that you’ll just get bored of crocodiles, because there are too many. At one point, I spotted over 30 at the very same location, not to mention that we bumped into loads of anacondas.

However, there is one downside to this hato, which is that it isn’t family-owned. Instead, it’s actually owned by the Government of Venezuela.

Why is it owned by the Government?

Well, Hato El Cedral was just one of the many victims of former President Chávez and his policy of expropriating over 5 million hectares across the country.

Therefore, today, everyone who works at Hato Cedral is a government employee. Don’t get me wrong though, the staff at Hato El Cedral are very friendly.

Prices start at around 70 USD a day. This includes all meals and tours as well, as at El Cristero, although the accommodation is pretty basic.

Overall, I am glad I visited Hato Cristero and got the chance to meet that family but Hato El Cedral offers a more outstanding and unique experience, since there isn’t anywhere else in the world where you can see so many anacondas and crocodiles.

Best high-end hato for fauna: Hato Garza

This hato offers a similar experience to Hato Cedral but it’s significantly smaller and more expensive.

The tours they offer are the same but their rooms are nicer, and I assume the food is fancier.

I haven’t ever been there myself, but another traveler did recommend it to me too.

How to get to Los Llanos

Los Llanos is a pretty big area that spreads across 5 Venezuelan states, including Apure, Barinas, Portuguesa, Cojedes and Guárico.

However, Apure and Barinas are the actual heartland of the cultura llanera (culture of Los Llanos), and where you find the largest concentration of fauna.

Hato Cristero is in Barinas, while Hato Garza and El Cedral are in Apure.

Barinas City is the capital of Barinas state and the main transport hub, while San Fernando de Apure serves as the same for Apure state.

Keep in mind that both cities are far away from each other, around 430km.

How to get to Barinas

Barinas is one of the main gateways for travel to Los Llanos, especially as it’s not far from Mérida and has an airport with connections to Caracas.

How to get to Barinas from Mérida: Visiting Los Llanos before or after backpacking in Mérida is really easy. Buses run regularly between both cities, taking around 5 hours along a very twisty, winding road. Here’s the bus station in Mérida, and here’s the bus station in Barinas.

How to get to Barinas from Caracas: There are a few buses a day but remember that the bus journey can take around 10 hours. There are two bus stations in Caracas with buses departing to Barinas. The main bus station is called La Bandera; this is the main hub for buses going in that direction, mainly used by the Venezuelan working class. If you want to travel like the locals do, catch your bus here. Alternatively, in the wealthy district of Chacao, there’s a small terminal with fancy buses also departing to Barinas. Some tourists prefer catching it here because it’s supposed to be safer. It’s called Aeroexpressos Ejecutivos.

How to get to Barinas by flight from Caracas: There are a few weekly flights connecting both cities. Check flights with Conviasa or just head to the domestic terminal in Caracas. Remember that in Venezuela, flights can’t be booked online, but you must purchase them at the respective office, usually located at the airport.

How to get to Hato Cristero from Barinas City

Hato Cristero is located 30km from the city of Barinas.

As there’s no public transport, you will have to hire a taxi. Hato Cristero offers a transfer service, as well, but it will always be more expensive than hiring a random taxi.

How to get to Hato Cedral from Barinas City

Hato Cedral is located in Apure state, but it can be easily reached from Barinas, a 200km ride.

Once you’re in Barinas, you can catch one of the buses to the town of Mantecal, from where you will have to hire a private taxi to Hato Cedral.

A river divides Barinas and Apure states, and due to rain and the road conditions, sometimes buses can’t make it across. If that’s the case, you won’t find any direct bus to Mantecal, so you’ll have to go to Ciudad de Nutrias, from where you’ll have to cross the bridge on foot (or moto taxi) and then find transportation to Mantecal.

Alternatively, from Barinas, you can also find local shared taxis. In Venezuela, these are called carritos por plaza.

How to get to Apure

If you’re traveling to Los Llanos from Caracas and only intend to visit Hato Cedral, I recommend going through Apure state instead, since the road and scenery are more interesting.

How to get to San Fernando de Apure from Caracas: Buses depart from Terminal La Bandera, as mentioned in the Barinas section.

How to get to Hato El Cedral from San Fernando de Apure

You will have to take a bus to the town of Mantecal, from where you will take a taxi to El Cedral.

Los Llanos Venezolanos Map

Best time to visit Los Llanos

Los Llanos is a year-round destination, each season offering a completely different experience.

Traveling to Los Llanos during the rainy season: May to November

During the wet season, the immense plains that comprise Los Llanos are flooded and beautifully verdant.

This is the best season for bird watching, piranha fishing and boat trips across the marshes.

However, if you’re interested in anacondas – for me, that was the highlight – the chances of spotting them at this time are slim.

Visit Los Llanos during the dry season: December to April

When it stops raining, the Venezuelan marshes dry out, thus exposing a large amount of fauna that was hidden either in the water or behind the tall bushes.

This is the best season for spotting anacondas, giant anteaters and walking across Los Llanos.

The downside is that it can get really hot and dry, and it’s not as beautiful as during the wet season.

How many days you need for visiting Los Llanos?

If you are only visiting El Cedral, which is what most foreign tourists do, here’s what I’d do:

• Day 1: Early morning, head to El Cedral from Caracas.
• Day 2: Full day in El Cedral.
• Day 3: Morning tour and departure after lunch.

Alternatively, if you wanted to combine Cristero & Cedral, this is what I did:

• Day 1: Early morning, head to Cristero from Caracas. Evening tour in Cristero.
• Day 2: Morning tour in Cristero. Departure to El Cedral after lunch.
• Day 3: Full day in El Cedral.
• Day 4: Morning tour and departure after lunch.

How much does it cost to visit Los Llanos?

Similarly to visiting Canaima, accommodation in Los Llanos usually includes everything, so calculating your budget is pretty straightforward.

Local transportation from Caracas to Hato Cristero or El Cedral will cost roughly 50 USD.

Hato El Cedral costs 70 USD a night, while Hato Cristero is 150 USD a night.

These prices includes all meals, tours and accommodation. Remember that as in most of Venezuela, price is always per person, whether you share a room or not.

More information

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Venezuela destination

• How to visit Angel Falls
• Venezuela Travel Guide

Other Related Travel Guide Articles:

• Haiti Travel Guide
• Haiti Itinerary

Wanna travel to Venezuela with Against the Compass?

Join us on a 2-week adventure across Canaima National Park, Los Llanos, Mérida and the Caribbean coast.

January 8th to 21st, 2025

learn more

Arguably, Venezuela might be the best country for travel in the whole of South America.

Blessed with the longest coastline in the Caribbean, the tallest waterfall in the world and the least unexplored part of the Amazon, Venezuela is packed with wilderness highlights.

While you might be thinking that every country in the continent is filled with jaw-dropping attractions, what I truly enjoyed about traveling in Venezuela is that there is no other Spanish-speaking country in the continent which is also so raw and authentic.

Yet Venezuela doesn’t come without its own travel difficulties and obstacles, so in this guide, you will learn how to travel in Venezuela, including tips on safety, money, accommodation, getting around and much more.

In this Venezuela travel guide, you will find:

Venezuela today

Can you travel to Venezuela?

Similar to Iraq or Somalia, Venezuela has an incredibly bad reputation for being one of the most dangerous countries in the world.

Venezuela, nevertheless, has never experienced suicide bombings or war-related problems. What it did have was a problem with high rates of violent crime, inflamed by one of the worst and longest-lasting economic crises in the world.

Venezuela’s economy is fully dependent on oil and is managed by extremely corrupt leaders with absolutely zero incentives, all fueled by the impementation of extreme Communist laws and policies that saw the country experience 10,000% inflation and a shortage crisis that lasted nearly 10 years, until 2019, a crisis that brought hundreds of Venezuelans close to starvation because they couldn’t even find a bag of rice in the supermarket. 

Venezuelans have suffered what is not written, and listening to their stories should be an unmissable part of your trip, as much as visiting the Angel Falls.

Today, the situation isn’t great but with the stabilization of their currency and the significant improvement in security, local people are feeling more optimistic and enthusiastic about their futures.

In my opinion, there hasn’t been a better time to travel to Venezuela than now.

Is it safe to travel to Venezuela?

Is Venezuela safe for tourists?

Several years ago, Venezuela was one of the most dangerous countries in the world – in my opinion far more dangerous than countries like Afghanistan, Yemen or even Mali.

Express kidnappings, muggings and road assaults were part of everyday life for Venezuelans.

On Monday mornings, the main topic of conversation between colleagues at pretty much any office or university was about who got robbed or kidnapped over the weekend.

Venezuela was so dangerous that even the Venezuelans’ habits shifted in cities, with streets clearing after 6 pm, since people preferred to celebrate and gather with friends in their own homes.

This terrible situation went on until around 2020.

Right now, traveling in Venezuela is safe, for the following reasons:

1. The Government took action against local mafias

Basically, by carrying out raids in specific shanty towns, targeting the organizations involved in kidnappings.

The police were very effective, but only because they went in and shot everyone indiscriminately, killing loads of innocent people at the same time.

2. Because of the crisis, kidnappings were no longer profitable business

Express kidnappings consisted of taking someone by force to make them empty their bank accounts, while threatening their and their family’s lives.

The problem however, is that Venezuela was suffering the worst of all inflations, so wealthy Venezuelans moved their fortunes to bank accounts in either Madrid or Miami, hence there was no way for them to transfers their funds, meaning the kidnapping business wasn’t very profitable any more.

Similarly, because of the crisis, ordinary Venezuelans weren’t carrying any money on them, mainly because the Venezuelan Bolívar was absolutely worthless, so mugging became increasingly difficult as well.

3. The thieves fled Venezuela to neighboring countries

Given the situation, many thieves decided to leave Venezuela, heading mainly to other Latin American countries such as Colombia, Ecuador or Perú.

Conclusion: Is Venezuela safe to visit?

Venezuela is safer to travel than it used to be, as all Venezuelans will tell you. But remember that still, this is rough and raw Latin America, so use your common sense: don’t display your valuables, don’t walk about alone after dark, etc.

Is Venezuela safe for Americans?

Yes, of course. Local people won’t judge you based on your nationality.

Also, it’s not like the USA has ever invaded and started a war in Venezuela, like they did in many Middle Eastern countries, so Americans can travel around Venezuela without fear.

How to get a visa for Venezuela

Most nationalities can get a free visa upon arrival, allowing you to travel in Venezuela for 90 days. This rule applies at both international airports and land borders.

Can Americans travel to Venezuela with a tourist visa?

Americans – and also Canadians – are the exception to the rule.

They can’t get a VOA, so instead must apply at the Venezuelan embassy in either Mexico City or Panama City.

The process can take up to 5 months (no kidding!) and the rules change all the time.

Fortunately, there is a pretty active Facebook group where travelers share their experiences in securing a tourist visa for Venezuela.

The group is called Venezuela Visa Support.

Travel insurance

Don’t travel to Venezuela without travel insurance. I recommend IATI Insurance because:

• One of the very few that covers travel in Venezuela.
• Different plans for all budgets.
• It covers senior citizens too.
• Readers of this blog can get a 5% exclusive discount

Money & budget for backpacking in Venezuela

Money is a complicated matter when backpacking in Venezuela, there are so many particularities.

Here’s what you need to know.

The local currency is now in parity with the US dollar

In Venezuela, they use the Venezuelan Bolívar and approximately:

1 USD = 36 VES

I’m not an economist so I don’t know how this actually works, but after inflation of nearly 10,000% back in 2019, the Government of Venezuela managed to contain it by equalizing the Bolívar with the US dollar.

The Venezuelan economy is now completely dollarized

While the Bolívar is still in circulation, the US dollar is quickly becoming the main currency, and it can be used for any type of transactions.

At small local businesses, such as fruits & veg shops, or convenience stores, they’ll likely give you the price in Bolívares although you will always be allowed to pay in USD.

If something costs less than 1 USD, they will give your change in Bolívares.

Bring all your money in cash

You can’t really withdraw money from an ATM.

I mean, technically you can, but ATMs always give Bolívares and only up to a certain amount, which tends to be the equivalent of no more than 25 USD.

Therefore, do bring all your money in cash, and in US dollars.

Bring the smallest possible notes

This is the number one tip for traveling in Venezuela.

In Venezuela, nobody has change, but I am not talking about not having change of $100. I am talking about buying something worth $4 dollars, paying with a $5 note and not getting your dollar change because the guy from the shop doesn’t have any.

This didn’t happen just once, or twice, it was a constant nightmare that happened several times a day, every time I tried to buy something outside of Caracas.

There’s a shortage of cash in Venezuela. In Caracas you can pay by card virtually everywhere so this shouldn’t be much of a problem there, but outside of the capital it really is.

How are the locals dealing with it? Well, they don’t really use cash; instead they use Pago Móvil, a mobile app for instant payments that can only be used if you have a Venezuelan bank account.

I know it’s hard to bring $1 bills, but just try to bring the smallest possible notes.

You can’t get money out of ATMs but you might be able to pay by card

However, don’t rely on this.

For example, my Revolut Card didn’t work in Venezuela but my N26 did, even though both of them are Mastercard.

In Caracas, cards are accepted everywhere, but that might not be the case in other parts of the country. It’s just random, sometimes they do accept cards, sometimes they don’t.

How much does a trip to Venezuela cost?

Estimating the cost of traveling to Venezuela is difficult, since it really depends on where you go, and what activities you do.

On the one hand, there’s Caracas.

Caracas is super expensive. If you decide to stay in Chacao, which is the safest area in the entire city – pretty much the only place where you can walk around without any fear – then know that things will be ridiculously expensive, e.g. $100 for a basic hotel room, $15 for an average local meal and $60 for a meal in an international restaurant (nothing fancy).

Then there are the touristy places such as Los Roques, Canaima, Los Llanos, the Orinoco Delta and Roraima. These places are also super expensive, so you should budget around $150 a day depending on where you stay.

Check out our Canaima travel guide to find out how to reduce costs.

Mérida and Margarita are the only famous tourist havens that are pretty affordable, where you can find excellent accommodation for $30, and the food is cheap too.

Everywhere else is cheap. In Valencia for example, you can find decent accommodation for $20, and a good local meal for $4. Public transportation is also cheap, I don’t think I ever paid more than $10 for a long-distance bus.

Best time to visit Venezuela

Venezuela is a year-round destination, so the best time to visit will depend on what you want to do.

Traveling in Venezuela from July to October: the rainy season.

During the rainy season, all of the waterfalls in Canaima National Park will be at their fastest flowing, including Angel Falls, the tallest waterfall in the world and the country’s top tourist attraction.

It’s important to highlight that the rainy season in Venezuela isn’t one of those Asian monsoon seasons with hurricanes where it keeps pouring all day long. It’s more like heavy rain for a few hours a day.

This season, however, might not be ideal for visiting the coast and the islands of Margarita and Los Roques.

It will also be pretty cold in the mountains around Mérida and, while Los Llanos will be covered in lush green, it’s not the best season to spot anacondas and other animals.

Traveling in Venezuela from November to April: the dry season

The dry season comes with its pros and cons as well.

For Canaima, be aware that the later you go, the less water you’ll find, so I don’t personally recommend going there in March or April.

On the other hand, the dry season is an excellent time to visit the islands, as well as for doing a safari in Los Llanos, including spotting giant anteaters and 5-meter anacondas.

Check our travel guide to Los Llanos for more information.

Venezuela travel tip: avoid local Bank Holidays
In Venezuela, there are very few foreign travelers but domestic tourism is pretty big, especially during certain annual festivities. You may want to avoid traveling to Los Llanos, Canaima, Margarita or Los Roques during the following dates:
Carnavales (February or March, depending on the year)
Easter (March or April, depending on the year)
Christmas Holidays
July 5th and 24th

Top Experiences in Venezuela

Go on an anaconda safari

Along with the Amazon, Los Llanos boatds with one of the largest populations of giant anacondas, and safaris to spot them can be easily arranged.

Check our travel guide to Los Llanos.

Explore Caribbean towns

The coast of Venezuela has a very distinct, very Caribbean culture, with the added advantage that it hasn’t been spoiled by foreign tourism – Choroní or Chacao being great examples.

Visit the tallest waterfall in the world

Venezuela is home to the world’s highest uninterrupted waterfall (979 meters). This waterfall can be found in a stunning national park named Canaima, which is only accessible by flying in.

Check our travel guide to Canaima.

Venezuelan people

Venezuela has seen very few backpackers for the last 30 years, so expect to make friends everywhere – more than in any other Latin American country!

Backpacking in Mérida

Mérida is the best example of traditional Venezuela, old colonial villages built in the Andes that feel like stepping back in time.

Getting in: how to travel to Venezuela

How to fly to Venezuela

Maiquetía or Simón Bolívar International Airport is the main airport hub in Caracas.

To be honest, it’s a fairly small airport with few connections.

If coming from Europe, Madrid is by far the best hub. Check Iberia or Air Europa.

You can also fly from Lisbon (TAP Portugal) and Istanbul (Turkish Airlines).

There are direct flights from Moscow as well.

Alternatively, you can also fly from Colombia, Panamá or México.

How to travel to Venezuela over land borders

Venezuela shares a border with:

• Colombia: all borders are open and easy to cross
• Brazil: despite sharing a very long border, there’s only one proper border crossing at Paracaima, the rest being dense jungle.
• Guyana: there aren’t any roads connecting both countries, only jungle, hence there isn’t any official border crossing.

Independent travel in Venezuela

I traveled around Venezuela for 25 days using public transportation.

Do you know how many backpackers I saw?

Zero, not a single one.

I did see foreign tourists in Canaima National Park, as well as a tour group in Los Llanos but not a single backpacker traveling independently around the country, not even in Mérida.

Venezuela is still perceived as a dangerous destination, few and far between are the travelers venturing here on their own, the reason being that it’s difficult to find any travel information about for it, e.g., there are barely any updated travel blogs on Venezuela.

Transportation: How to move around Venezuela

How to travel around Venezuela by public transportation

Transportation in Venezuela isn’t very different from other Latin American countries.

Each town will have its own bus terminal, from where you can catch a bus to other villages, towns and cities.

Wealthy Venezuelans will always tell you that traveling by bus is very dangerous and that you shouldn’t even think about doing it, but I found bus travel to be one of the most enriching experiences in Venezuela, especially on long distance journeys, where bus passengers tend to become friends.

It’s a great opportunity to get local insights from the segment of Venezuelans who have struggled the most, the people who can only afford to travel by bus. 

In big cities like Valencia or Caracas, some routes offer different types of buses, from comfortable AC coach buses to crumbling mini vans without windows.

Venezuela travel tip: If traveling with an AC bus, do always bring one extra layer cause they tend to put the AC at 8ºC

There are no general rules for taking buses, it just depends on the specific route, and which terminal it departs from. Sometimes there is a proper bus schedule, sometimes they depart only when full. You might also be lucky to ride on a neat air-conditioned coach, or you might get a crumbling mini van without windows.

Where are the bus stations in Caracas?

Caracas is obviously the main hub for bus travel around Venezuela, and these are the main 3 stations:

Terminal La Bandera: buses that travel West of Caracas, including Valencia, Maracaibo, Los Llanos, Mérida or Amazonas State.

Terminal Antonio José de Sucre: buses traveling east of Caracas – Oriente, like Venezuelans say – including Barcelona, Bolívar State or Santa Elena.

Terminal Privado Aeroexpresos Ejecutivos: fancy buses for the most common destinations in Venezuela, including Mérida or Santa Elena. Buses here are more expensive, run less often and need to be booked in advance but they sell the idea of extra comfort and security. As a backpacker, I prefer traveling from either of the other 2 stations.

Traveling around Venezuela by shared taxi

In small towns with small terminals, where buses don’t run that often, it’s easy to find shared taxis as well.

You have to ask for a carrito a plaza.

Traveling around Venezuela by plane

Venezuela is a big country, so travelers with little time to travel in Venezuela might opt to take a domestic flight.

The problem, however, is that flights can’t be booked online; you must purchase your flight tickets at the respective office in the airport. That or look for a local travel agency to do it for you, for an extra fee.

Additionally, other than Los Roques and Margarita, flights between destinations don’t run every day, so you really need to plan your itinerary in advance.

Common domestic airlines are Avior Airlines, Conviasa and Laser Airlines.

Traveling around Venezuela with a Vehicle for Hire app

Yummy Rides and Ridery are the local versions of Uber, available in most cities across Venezuela, but they can also be used for long distance transportation.

Accommodation: where to stay in Venezuela

Booking sites such as booking.com are not very useful in Venezuela, since they only offer a few expensive options in Caracas.

The best way to look for accommodation in Venezuela is on Google Maps.

Look for a hotel, call them and ask for price and availability.

Local guest houses are locally known as posadas. They are usually cheap, averaging 20 USD a night without breakfast.

Posadas can be found virtually everywhere in Venezuela.

In touristy places such as Los Llanos, Delta del Orinoco, Canaima or Los Roques, you won’t find local posadas, and instead you will generally stay in lodges – which tend to always offer full board, especially since they are located in remote areas with no restaurants around.

Venezuelan people

I found people in Venezuela to be extremely friendly.

The experience is similar to Colombia, let’s say, but many Venezuelans have barely interacted with a foreigner before, creating an extra incentive for them to meet foreign tourists.

I was the first Spanish person to ever talk to many Venezuelans across the country, especially people in their 20s or 30s. They had only heard Castilian Spanish accents in movies, in La Casa de Papel (Money Heist), or on YouTube, so that was the perfect ice-breaker for any conversations.

One day, I was walking along the promenade of Choroní when I approached a group of Venezuelans having a good time, with a portable fridge packed with beers.

“Are you selling beer?” I asked.

“No, but here’s one for you“, – he answered.

It was 8 pm and I ended up partying with them until 4 am.

Venezuelans love partying, drinking, loud music, dancing, having fun… and they will never hesitate to ask a stranger to join them.

Other than friendliness, Venezuelans are generally very conservative. Well, I wouldn’t say conservative but it is still a very traditional society. They’re very family-oriented and things like homosexuality, for example, are still taboo.

Don’t get me wrong; their opinion on homosexuality is different from the Middle East. You won’t go to jail and nobody is going to bother you, but a large number of people will think that it isn’t normal.

How many people have fled Venezuela?

Depending on which part of the world you’re living in, you may have noticed a massive influx of Venezuelans currently living abroad, who have fled their countries due to the economic crisis.

It’s quite noticeable in Spain, as well as in the USA, and other countries in Latin America.

People in their 20s, 30s and 40s are the one who left, and they have no intention to come back. This massive exodus of people is also noticeable in Caracas, where there isn’t much going on.

Language

Spanish is the official language of Venezuela, and I strongly recommend learning at least some basics because very few Venezuelans can speak English, not even in Caracas, or within the tourism industry.

Even in Hato El Cedral in Los Llanos – where I met a group of people from Central Europe – they didn’t have any English-speaking guides, and they were only able to communicate with them because one guy in the group spoke fluent Spanish.

Other than Spanish, up to 40 different languages are spoken in Venezuela by the indigenous communities, according to the local census.

Cuisine: what are you going to eat during your trip to Venezuela?

The local food isn’t the reason you will be traveling to Venezuela, but it’s alright, cheap and the portions are huge.

Breakfast in Venezuela

Most Venezuelans will have breakfast at the bakery, where they eat different kinds of pastries, the most popular being cachito de jamón y queso, a yeasted bread filled with ham and cheese.

Surprisingly, many hotels and posadas don’t include breakfast, but a heavier breakfast would typically consist of cheese, eggs and arepa (corn bread)

National dish

Pabellón Criollo is the national dish in Venezuela, consisting of black beans, rice, meat and plantain, available in most local restaurants.

Other snacks

My favorite was cachapa, a slightly sweet Venezuelan pancake filled with cheese, but you can find it with many other fillings too.

Another popular snack is the stuffed arepa, available with all sorts of fillings as well, but usually cheese and meat.

Beer in Venezuela

The cheapest thing you can buy in Venezuela is beer, which rarely costs more than 1 USD for a 20cl bottle.

Venezuelans like to drink it ice-cold, so anywhere you go, cold beer is guaranteed.

They have quite a few brands but Polar is the one that can be found everywhere. In fact, outside of Caracas and tourist sites, it’s difficult to find any others.

Internet in Venezuela

Venezuela has probably the slowest internet in all Latin America, here’s what you need to know.

Wi-Fi

Most hotels and posadas have Wi-Fi, with an OK connection.

In Canaima, many lodges have a StarLink receiver, which is good enough for simple browsing.

Internet data

You can easily buy a SIM card packed with internet data.

However, bear in mind that many areas of Venezuela, including Canaima or certain parts of Los Llanos and Mérida have very little coverage, and even in Caracas it’s a little bit slow sometimes.

I bought a Digitel SIM at their official store in the Chacao area.

Can you get an eSIM for Venezuela?

Yes, now you can get an eSIM with Airalo, which offers different packages for Venezuela.

However, I recommend getting a local SIM card, since eSIMs only offer internet service, but you might want to be able to call a local number, as explained in the accommodation section of this post.

More travel information for Venezuela

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Venezuela destination

• How to visit Angel Falls
• How to visit Los Llanos

More travel guides from the Americas

• Haiti Travel Guide
• Haiti Itinerary

Wanna travel to Libya with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Libya on:

October 26th to November 1st, 2024

learn more

This is the most complete and up-to-date Libya travel guide available on the internet.

Libya is a surprising country indeed.

Home to Leptis Magna and Sabratha, Libya has outstanding, world-class Roman ruins, sitting on the Libyan coast.

From 1911 to 1951, the country was an Italian colony, the heritage of which is still very visible, not only in the architecture that dominates the center of Tripoli, but also in the somehow sophisticated way Libyans drink their cappuccino.

Except for a tiny part of the – today inaccessible – eastern coast, Libya is an utterly massive, barely populated desert, filled with ancient Berber, caravan towns like Gadhames, located more than 600km from Tripoli.

Today, however, Libya has become a failed state struggling to put an end to an armed conflict that has been ongoing since 2011, preventing travelers from venturing into the most off the beaten track country in the whole Mediterranean.

However, with proper planning and research, anyone can travel to Libya safely.

This guide contains endless Libya travel tips that will show you how.

Libya today: what is it like to travel to Libya?

In 2011, following the Arab Spring in neighbouring Tunisia and Egypt, a set of peaceful protests against an absolute Libyan dictator, Muammar Gaddafi, escalated into a bloody armed conflict between the rebels and Gaddafi’s local forces.

One year later, Gaddafi was defeated, captured, and killed, putting an end to more than 40 years of dictatorship.

For the first time ever, Libyans were able to foresee a bright, beautiful future but, unfortunately, the same people who wanted to overthrow Gaddafi, claiming to favor democracy, began to fight each other over power and wealth, dividing the country into different regions controlled by different militias.

A second civil war began, and on and off conflicts continued until the country officially split into two main regions, ruled by two different, independent Governments: West Libya, with Tripoli as the capital, and East Libya, with Benghazi as the main city.

However, in October 2020, exhausted from a pointless civil war, both Governments signed a permanent ceasefire and promised to hold elections, but they have been continuously postponed ever since.

Today, the peace agreement is still valid, but that doesn’t avoid the occasional clashes between the two Governments, and their permanent disagreements over power, like happened in May 2022.

Tourists can travel to Libya now, but your visa will only be valid for travel in the Western part of Libya because the Eastern Government doesn’t recognize it. 

Update 2024: East Libya is now open and your regular tourist visa for Libya will be valid for the eastern part as well.

Is it safe to travel to Libya?

By far, safety is the number 1 concern for people wanting to visit Libya, which is kind of understandable, since the media has been showing nothing but years and years of conflict.

As previously mentioned, a peace agreement was signed between both West and East Governments back in 2020 and, except for a few occasional clashes between the Government forces – where civilians are not targeted – traveling to the West part Libya is mostly safe nowadays.

All Libyans will tell you that today, traveling to Libya is completely safe and as long as the money coming from oil – Libya is an oil-rich country – keeps flowing through both East and West, it will remain so, or that’s what many locals Libyans believe.

My personal experience when I went to Libya

From Afghanistan to Syria and Iraq, one can really feel that you are in a conflict or post-war country but for some reason, not in Libya.

On the one hand, you barely see any military presence there, at least in the areas where you are allowed to travel, and that includes the capital too.

On the other hand, while destruction is prevalent in most Syrian cities’ skylines, Tripoli is pretty untouched, as were all the places we visited, except for the main avenue in Misrata, the city that suffered the most.

We saw a few buildings with bullet holes and stuff but not even 1% of what you see in Mosul or Aleppo.

Again, I just saw one tiny part of the country, and I know that in Benghazi, for example, there was a fierce battle but, from a traveling standpoint, most places in West Libya are intact, and the atmosphere seems surprisingly relaxed.

How to get a visa for Libya

SUPER UPDATE 2024!

The visa for Libya used to be one of the most difficult ones in the world, a very painful process full of uncertainties.

However, as of April 2024, the Government decided to implement an e-visa system, with which you can obtain your visa in one week.

You can apply for your e-visa here.

e-visa for Libya: FAQ

How much does the e-visa for Libya cost?

It costs 63 US dollars.

How long does the approval take, and how long is it valid for?

For now, the approval comes after 5 working days, approximately.

Once you get the approval, you have 90 days to enter Libya.

Is it 100% reliable?

In Libya, things change all the time, like nowhere else in the world.

Remember that in 2023, the Government also introduced a visa on arrival, which only lasted for 3 months.

According to our contacts in Libya, the e-visa is fully working and travelers are getting into Libya without any issues but the real question is:

Is the e-visa going to stay?

We don’t know, and nobody can’t know, because this is Libya.

Does the e-visa allow you to travel independently?

Theoretically, you can’t travel independently in Libya.

However, travel reports suggest that some travelers have tried to sneak in and our local contacts in Libya informed us that the tourist police are currently working on preventing this.

They fear, nevertheless, that if travelers keep coming without a local sponsor, they will eventually block the e-visa.

How to get a visa for Libya the old way (before the introduction of e-visa)

The following information is irrelevant now, but I prefer to keep it here, especially because the e-visa system could also disappear, meaning that going back to the old way is a possibility, because this is Libya.

This is how you used to get a Libyan visa up to March 2024.

Step 1 – Getting your Letter of Invitation (LOI)

In order to get your visa for Libya, the first thing you need to do is get a Letter of Invitation from an authorized Libya-based company.

Note that Libyan companies won’t issue an LOI unless you book a full tour of Libya with them.

How long do I have to wait to get the LOI?

The problem with Libya is that nothing is official.

They say that LOI are issued in 1 week but sometimes they don’t come until 3 weeks later and sometimes they in just 3 days.

Libya’s bureaucracy is so random.

How long is the LOI valid for?

There’s no official date but rumors say it has a 1-month validity, extendable to 3 months. Again, this is also pretty random.

Step 2 – Getting your actual visa at the embassy

Once your LOI is approved, the next step is visiting the Libyan embassy in your home country or country of residence.

The LOI will come with a 6-digit number, and it’s recommended to call the embassy in advance, telling them about your upcoming visit and the respective number.

I got my visa at the Libyan embassy in Madrid.

They told me to physically go there any day, from Monday to Wednesday, from 10am to 1pm, and these were their requirements:

• Passport with more than 6 months validity
• 2 passport photos
• Letter of Invitation
• Letter from the company you work for, stating the business reason you want to travel to Libya

Once they checked that all my documents were correct, they told me to deposit the amount of 60€ in their bank account – which I did at the nearest bank – and come back with the receipt.

When I gave them the receipt, they told me to come back after two hours to collect my visa, that’s it.

That’s for the embassy in Madrid, what about the rest of the embassies?

Requirements are pretty much the same across most embassies but, while some of them require the applicant to be physically there, others allow you to mail them all docs.

Moreover, like in Madrid, some embassies issue your visa within 2 hours, while others might take a few days.

The best way to find out is by calling your nearest embassy.

What if there’s no embassy in your home country?

Then, you can apply from an embassy of your choice, but you need to tell your local sponsor in advance.

How long is the visa valid for?

Up to September 2023, the visa was valid for 1 month, from the moment you collect it and it can’t be extended.

However, now they say that they will extend it to 3 months.

Traveling to Libya as an independent traveler: is it allowed?

Not really, as mentioned in the visa section of this post.

Actually, independent travel in Libya has never been allowed, even during Gaddafi’s rule, and the reason is that, in their eyes, foreigners could always be potential spies.

With the new e-visa, things could have changed but theoretically speaking, here’s what you need to know on independent travel in Libya.

Your local guide must pick you up from immigration

Nowadays, upon arrival at the International Airport of Tripoli, even before getting your entry stamp, the authorities will put you aside, waiting for your sponsor, a representative from the company who issued your LOI – the local guide, in my case. 

This person will have to go through a few formalities and only then, will you be able to enter Libya.

You will be accompanied by a local official

During my trip to Libya, I had always to be accompanied by an official who claimed to be part of the tourist police.

Along with my local guide and driver, this person stuck with us the whole time, eating with us and even staying in our hotels outside of Tripoli.

While spending the whole trip with an official might seem quite annoying – you actually have to pay for his meals and hotels – but that’s included in the total tour package – the truth is that he was a pretty nice guy who basically became one more of us.

He was unarmed, joked all the time and always tried to be helpful.

Some travelers who travel to Libya as gas consultants (fake purpose, of course) claim that they were never accompanied by such an official, but only the local guide.

Your itinerary can’t be flexible

It can’t be changed. Your itinerary will be shared with the security department before your arrival and making changes won’t be allowed.

Can you walk around Tripoli on your own

Yes, you can but this is something you must discuss with your local guide.

Best time to visit Libya

Best time to travel to Libya: November to March

The weather becomes pleasant during these months but note that temperature can drop to 0ºC in December-January, so do bring warm clothing for the freezing nights, especially in the desert areas.

Worst time to travel to Libya: June to September

In summer, Libya is too hot to enjoy.

I personally came during the last week of May and days were already utterly hot, making sightseeing very difficult. Evenings however, were good.

How to get to Libya

How to travel to Libya by air

The main airport in Libya is Mitiga International Airport, located 11km from the center of Tripoli.

This airport used to have plenty of connections but nowadays, you can only travel from the following cities:

• Tunis
• Cairo
• Istanbul

I recommend coming from Tunis because there are a lot more flights, plus they are cheaper.

Which airlines fly to Libya?

Today, the only foreign airline that flies to Tripoli is Tunis Air but the problem is that it doesn’t fly there every day, only 2-3 times a week, so depending on your travel dates, it could be inconvenient.

Alternatively, Libyan Wings flies from Tunis to Tripoli every day but the problem is that you can’t book tickets online, so someone has to go to an actual Libyan Wings office and pay in cash. This is something you’ll need to arrange with your local guide or sponsor.

How to travel to Libya by land:

Libya shares a border with 5 countries.

Traveling to Libya from Tunisia

Travel reports suggest the border is open, and there are actually direct buses from Tunis to Tripoli but, besides the nearly 800km distance, border formalities will take a lot of time if you go on a bus packed with people.

Alternatively, you could head slowly to the border (the one by the coast) and cross on foot. However, if you opt for this choice, your local guide will have to pick you up from there, increasing the overall cost of your trip.

Check my Tunisia travel guide

Traveling to Libya from Egypt

This border used to be open during Gaddafi’s time but not anymore, since the Eastern part of Libya is controlled by a different faction that won’t recognize your business visa.

Check my Egypt travel guide

Traveling to Libya from Algeria, Niger, Chad and Sudan

Those borders are super closed.

Top experiences in Libya

Libya has actually a lot of touristic potential; it is no wonder that during the Gaddafi years, many tour groups used to come here.

1 – Visiting first-league Roman ruins

Leptis Magna and Sabratha are exceptional Roman sites, with no reason to envy Palmyra in Syria, or Baalbek in Lebanon, and the best thing about them is that they are built by the sea.

2 – Admiring the Italian Heritage in Tripoli

As in Eritrea, Italians left their footprint in Libya, leaving behind a very strong coffee culture and the most beautiful buildings in the country.

3 – Experiencing the Libyan desert

Whether you are driving from town to town, or just having tea with the Tuaregs, few countries in the world have such a vast, empty desert.

4 – Visiting the ancient caravan city of Ghadames

Ghadames is an ancient desert town and oasis, home to an entangled and massive old city composed of hundreds of pathways, which also turns out to be a UNESCO Heritage site.

5 – Learning about the current crisis in Misrata

Misrata was one of the most affected cities during the Libyan Civil war, the legacy of which is still very visible. Today, the city features a brand-new museum about the crisis.

Internet and connectivity in Libya

As expected, Wi-Fi isn’t particularly reliable in Libya, but you can easily get a local SIM card at the airport.

I personally bought a SIM card packed with 20GB of data for just 39LYD (around 8 USD), which was more than enough for just 6 days.

If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling.

Budget and money: how much does it cost to travel to Libya?

In Libya, they use the Libyan Dinar (LYD) and approximately:

1 USD = 4.80 LYD

Obviously, the currency in Libya is not very stable, so do check the exact exchange rate before departure.

Can you use credit or debit cards in Libya?

No, you can’t, so do bring all your money in cash.

However, you won’t need much money because you are likely to travel to Libya on a tour, where pretty much everything is included.

In 6 days, I spent the equivalent of 30€, just for a few night meals which weren’t included in Tripoli.

Where can I exchange money?

I believe your local guide will help you with that but the main area for exchange is in a specific place in the old city of Tripoli.

How much does it cost to travel to Libya?

As mentioned, the only way to travel to Libya is by purchasing a tour, which tends to include all expenses but in any case, here’s a summary of the most typical costs:

• Visa: around 65 USD
• Round trip flight Tunis Tripoli with Libyan Wings: €250
• Meal in a local restaurant: around 25-40 LYD
• Meal in a fancy restaurant: from 50-90LYD
• Espresso or cappuccino in a local coffee shop: 2 LYD
• Espresso or cappuccino in a fancy café: 5 LYD

How to get around Libya

It doesn’t really make sense to add a getting around section since you’ll be traveling from city to city by car, with your local guide but still, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Gas is extremely cheap, the second cheapest in the world after Venezuela.
• Despite having some of the most massive oil reserves, there’s an oil shortage, and many gas stations are virtually empty. On our way to Ghadames, we had to travel with three large cans filled with gas, since finding gas can be a gamble.
• The driving is bad, Libyans don’t really like to follow traffic rules, but that didn’t surprise me.
• The coastal road is sort of busy, but the roads leading inland are absolutely empty, only desert, and barely any cars.

Libya: the country, people and culture

Along with Morocco, Mauritania, Tunisia and Algeria, Libya is one of the 5 countries that compose the Maghreb region.

It is the 4th largest country in Africa, and the 16th in the world, but its land is only inhabited by 6 million people, making it one of the least densely populated countries in the world.

People, the Libyans

Unlike other African countries, Libya has a pretty homogenous society.

Arabs: Most Libyans can be classified as Arabs. However, while the western part of Libya has more similarities to Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia, the eastern part has more resemblance to Egypt. In fact, this cultural difference is what has left the country divided, and dictates the international agenda too, since both Governments are supported by their respective foreign counterpart. 

Berbers: Apparently, 5% of the total Libyan population are Berbers, the indigenous ethnic group in north Africa before the Arabs came. They have their own language and folklore, and usually, they have a darker skin. I found Berbers from Libya had a stronger identity than Berbers in Tunisia or Morocco, since Berber flags were seen everywhere. However, they have absolutely no problem in saying they are Libyans. On the way to Ghadames, you’ll see lots of Berber towns.

Language

In Libya, they speak Arabic and, like its people, while the dialect spoken in West Libya is similar to Tunisia’s, in East Libya it is similar to Egypt’s.

Do people speak English in Libya?

Not much but again, you are likely to be with a local guide the whole time, so communication shouldn’t be much of an issue.

Religion

Libyans are Sunni Muslims, but in Tripoli, you can find some churches that are frequented by the small Christian community.

Like Bashar al Assad in Syria, Muammar Gaddafi was a secular dictator who always condemned fundamentalist and religious extremists but unlike in Syria, where there’s a very significant secular society, I found the people in Libya to be extremely religious and traditional.

The few women you see in the street always wear hijab and to my surprise, many of them wore the niqab, something rarely seen in North Africa.

Libyan cuisine

Food won’t be the highlight of your trip, but some of their dishes aren’t bad.

I can’t tell what’s food like in East Libya, but in West Libya, food is similar to other countries in the Maghreb.

Cous-cous is their signature meal and what I like about it is that it’s quite juicy, usually tomato-based, like in Tunisia, while in Morocco I always found it to be drier. Grilled meat with white rice is always available in most restaurants and, thanks to the Italian influence, pasta too.

In Tripoli, you can actually find many Italian restaurants, a very popular chain being Caffe di Roma, where you have a wide variety of pastas and pizzas to choose from. It’s not the best pasta ever but after a few days of just eating cous-cous, it wasn’t bad at all.

Another dish I tried was usban, a Libyan sausage filled with rice and meat, too heavy for my taste, but sort of tasty.

Alcohol in Libya

Since Gaddafi came into power in 1969, Libya has been a dry country.

Being such a secular ruler, I wondered why he banned alcohol. Some Libyans believe he banned it so people would not get drunk and start talking about politics, saying bad things about the Government. That’s hard to believe, since not even Kim Jong Un does that.

Coffee in Libya

I am a big coffee drinker, especially in the morning, so whenever I visit a predominantly tea country, I always struggle, and I thought Libya would be one of those, but I was wrong.

Coffee culture in Libya is a big deal and, due to the Italian influence, they prepare it in a pretty sophisticated way, with so much love, and always with the right amount of foam.

What was even more surprising, however, is that you can also have really good coffee in more rural towns, like Ghadames for example, and even in the random villages you find along the road.

Where to stay in Libya

There aren’t many hotels in Libya, but there are enough to accommodate the few tourists, business people, and diplomats that visit the country.

Where to stay in Tripoli

Mid-range – Hotel Victoria – This is the preferred hotel for travelers, featuring a rooftop with excellent views to the city.

5 stars – Sheraton Hotel – Better than Victoria, of course.

Top-end – Corinthia Hotel Tripoli – The best hotel in town

Where to stay outside of Tripoli

In Gadhames: we stayed at Ghadamis Hotel, a massive hotel with traditional architecture that opened 1 or 2 years before the beginning of the war but, since it’s government-owned, it has remained open. We stayed there for two nights, and were completely alone.

In Misrata: With our groups, we used to stay in Safari Hotel

In Al Baida: Al Baida is the base for exploring East Libya, and the hotel we stay is Hotel Marhaba

Solo female travel in Libya

Independent travel is not allowed in Libya, so solo women will always go with the local guide and the tourist police, making things much easier for them.

My local guide said he has had many female clients – some of them came alone, while others with a partner or friend – and he said all of them had a great time.

Have you been to Libya (as a solo female) and want to write a guest post for Against the Compass to tell us about the experience?

Then, kindly shoot me an email at joan@againstthecompass.com

More Information for traveling to Libya

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Travel guides to other countries in Africa

• Ethiopia Travel Guide
• Eritrea Travel Guide
• Somaliland Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Sudan
• Travel Guide to Egypt
• Mali Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Mauritania
• Tunisia Travel Guide

You will also like our Syria travel guide, Iraq travel guide and Haiti travel guide.

The first time I traveled in Afghanistan was in June 2021, just when the US Army had begun to withdraw from the country, and shortly before the Taliban took it over.

With the new change of government, I decided to go back to see what it was like to travel in Afghanistan under new Taliban rule.

From a traveling perspective, a lot has changed in this country.

After visiting Afghanistan 5 times, traveling all across the country, during the 4 seasons, from Kandahar to the Wakhan Corridor, here’s the most updated and complete travel guide to Afghanistan, containing everything you need to know relating to safety, visas, permits, budget, top experiences, cultural facts, and more.

Check: 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan

Can you travel to Afghanistan now?

Yes, today, anyone can go to Afghanistan.

In fact, Afghanistan has always been open for tourism, and visas have always been issued at the respective embassies.

When the Taliban came into power, only 2 or 3 embassies could issue you a tourist visa but today, the number of embassies increased significantly – more on that on the visa section.

Moreover, either because they want to whitewash their image, or because they need foreign currency, the new Taliban Government is welcoming foreign tourists, the only barrier being the ethical issues that such a trip may trigger on certain travelers.

Introduction: What’s going on in Afghanistan?

More than 40 years of conflict have turned Afghanistan into an actual war-torn country, starting in 1979, when tribal people rebelled against the Communist party, starting a war between the Soviet Union and the Mujahideen, which lasted until 1989.

The Soviets were defeated but then, Mujahideen warlords began to fight each other over power, impoverishing the country even more.

Fed up with all that warlordism and disappointed that Islamic law had not been enforced after the communists were kicked out, a former Mujahid founded a movement named Taliban in the city of Kandahar.

That man was Mullah Omar, the historical leader of the Taliban.

The Taliban quickly took over the whole Kandahar province and, by 1996, they controlled 90% of Afghanistan’s territory, including Kabul, ruling until 2001.

Then, the American Invasion came, initiating a war that ended with their withdrawal in 2021, an event that Taliban used to take over the country.

Afghanistan under Taliban rule is the situation you will witness if you travel today in Afghanistan.

How to get a visa for Taliban Afghanistan

Before the Taliban took over in 2021, you could get an Afghanistan visa at pretty much any embassy around the world but things have changed now, since there’s only a handful of embassies and consulates that can issue you with a valid visa:

The easiest embassies where to get an Afghan visa are:

• Dubai (United Arab Emirates)
• Islamabad (Pakistan)
• Peshawar (Pakistan)
• Doha (Qatar)

Furthermore, travel reports suggest that the following embassies are also issuing tourist visas for Afghanistan but I don’t have any personal experience with it – reports are welcome in the comments section:

• Istanbul (Turkey)
• Tehran (Iran)
• Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates)
• Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan)

And last, some embassies in Europe have also started issuing them in:

• Madrid
• London
• Berlin

The easiest is to get your visa in your home country but if there is no active embassy in the country you reside, Dubai and Islamabad are the most convenient places, for the simple reason that you find there are daily flight connections with Kabul.

Visa on arrival (VOA) for Afghanistan

There is a way to get a VOA for Afghanistan and that is by crossing from Tajikistan at the Shir Khan border – this is the border that is closer to the Afghan city of Kunduz.

The visa on arrival has a cost of 150 USD and the whole paperwork takes a few hours.

From Kunduz, you can easily get to Mazar. This border however, is the most convenient one for those traveling to the Wakhan Corridor. In fact, this is the route we’ll take on our upcoming Wakhan Corridor Expedition.

Travel requirements for the Afghanistan visa

I’ve personally got my Afghan visa in Islamabad, Dubai and Madrid and generally speaking, these are always their requirements:

• 1-2 passport photos
• 1 passport copy
• 1 Pakistan visa copy (if you apply in Islamabad)
• 80-130 US dollars, depending on the urgency. Americans can pay up to 210 USD
• Letter of Invitation (LOI) + Company license of your sponsor – Optional

Read: How to travel to Pakistan

My personal experience applying for the Afghanistan visa

Islamabad: Showed up without an appointment. A visa costs 80 USD, but you can also pay an additional 50 USD to get your visa in less than 24 hours. In my case, I went to the embassy at 3:30pm and got it the next day around 2pm. If I had applied early in the morning, I could have got it on the same day in the afternoon. No LOI was needed.

Madrid: Showed up without an appointment. Paid €200 and got my visa in 1 hour. The non-urgent service takes 1 week and costs €120. You may mail them your docs as well. No LOI was needed.

Dubai: Showed up without an appointment. Paid 130 USD and got my visa in 3 hours. Travel reports suggest that sometimes, they do ask for the LOI.

The other embassies and consulates have similar rules, but visa fees may vary. Your reports on this matter are welcome in the comments section.

How long is the visa valid for?

The visa is single entry and it’s valid for 30 days within a 90-day period.

Which nationalities can go to Afghanistan?

All nationalities are eligible to apply for an Afghan visa at any of the previously shared embassies.

Can Americans travel to Afghanistan?

Yes, US citizens can also travel to Afghanistan without any sort of restriction.

Do you need a Letter of Invitation for your Afghan visa application?

Upon applying for your Afghan visa, they might ask who will be your sponsor in Afghanistan, but you can say that you don’t need one, that you are traveling alone, and it should be fine.

This rule applies in Islamabad and sometimes in Dubai as well, but in Dubai, some travel reports suggest that this hasn’t always been the case.

At the end of the day, in Afghanistan, rules aren’t written and more often than not, they depend on the respective authority’s mood.

Is it safe to travel in Afghanistan with the Taliban?

From a security perspective, Afghanistan has improved a lot but it’s a relative safety. Kindly allow me to go point by point.

Visiting Afghanistan before the Taliban took over in 2021

Up to summer 2021, any trip to Afghanistan was potentially dangerous.

The country was ruled by a “democratic’” Government, but they were in an ongoing war with the Taliban, who controlled a significant part of Afghanistan.

Traveling in the Government-controlled areas was relatively OK but suicide bombings occurred every other day and violent crime in cities like Kabul were kind of a big deal.

On the other hand, Taliban-controlled areas were physically possible to visit but the chance of getting kidnapped was extremely high.

In summary, visiting Afghanistan was possible but you had to travel with an extra degree of caution and accept a certain amount of risk.

Read: Is Pakistan safe?

Traveling in Afghanistan after the Taliban took over in 2021

Despite the humanitarian and economic crisis, the war is finally over in Afghanistan and the new rulers are trying to build a peaceful and legitimate Government – or pretending to at least – aiming at being recognized by the entire international community.

Taliban are not carrying out terrorist attacks any longer, kidnappings are a thing from the past, and violent crime seems to have disappeared from Kabul.

Is this thanks to the Taliban?

Well, that’s what they want you to believe but not really, it’s just that they are the ones in charge now, they aren’t fighting anymore and just wish to be a normal country, while attracting foreign investment.

With the Taliban, the country is much safer than in 2021, one can really feel it because all the provinces are fully open and also because the Afghans you will meet along the way will keep repeating all the time, that Afghanistan is finally safer.

However, there is a potential danger: Islamic State Khorasan.

Warning: Islamic State Khorasan

You might find it hard to believe that the Islamic State is still alive and that they have become the number 1 enemy of the Taliban, claiming that Taliban are too soft and mere puppets of the West.

This branch of IS in Central Asia is called IS Khorasan and the Taliban are currently in a violent counterinsurgency struggle against them.

IS Khorasan has carried out several terrorist attacks under Taliban rule.

In fact, on May 17th, 2024, the Islamic State attacked a group of tourists in the town of Bamyan, where 3 Spanish citizens died.

Unfortunately, the attack was against our group, we aren’t trying to hide it.

Our conclusions on the attack in Bamyan

• While it’s true that safety in Afghanistan has improved a lot, remember that one must always assume a certain amount of risk.
• The attack was against our group but all those affected or involved keep believing that it was a random attack, since Afghanistan has been receiving thousands of tourists for the last years, plus the attack happened in an area where you always see travelers.
• While it’s true that we won’t be traveling to Afghanistan any time soon, travelers keep going there, since many also know that it was an isolated case. As a traveler, what would I do? Personally, I would wait for a few months to see how the situation evolves but what I truly believe is that these sorts of attacks shouldn’t be a barrier to your willingness and excitement for traveling in Afghanistan.

Permits for traveling in Afghanistan

For traveling around Afghanistan, you will need special permission from the Taliban.

If you are traveling on an organized tour, you don’t need to worry about anything because your local fixer will take care of that but independent travelers will have to get it for themselves which, in our experience, isn’t an easy thing to do.

Need to know about your permit for traveling around Afghanistan

Your travel permit must mention all the provinces you will visit in Afghanistan.

However, it should only mention those provinces you are planning to stay in, not those you are just passing through.

For example, if you want to visit Bamyan from Kabul, you will inevitably pass through Wardak province, but you don’t necessarily need a permit for that, because you’ll just be driving through.

You will have to pay 1000 AFN for each province you visit, which is around 12 USD.

This permit is absolutely needed, and many Taliban will ask for it at checkpoints.

Note: They will usually make you pay 1000 AFN per province you visit but sometimes, depending on the traveler, they don’t charge it. From what I heard, they usually don’t charge anything to female travelers.

How to get your travel permit for Afghanistan, a step-by-step guide

Warning: The following steps look pretty straightforward but, in our experience, rules keep changing and everyone seemed to give us different information. Getting inside the different offices and ministries was also pretty challenging, since the Taliban guarding the gates don’t speak a single word of English, and they never seemed to understand the purpose of our visit.

Step 1 – Go to the Ministry of Culture & Information

Location is here.

Here, you’ll need to get 2 signatures from 2 different authorities, which will take around 2 hours.

Once you get your 2 signatures, they will give you an address and a phone number.

In our case, each of the 2 authorities gave us completely different addresses, phone numbers and contact persons but only one of them picked up the phone.

Step 2 – Go to the Tourism Directory, aka Afghan Tour

Location is here.

This building was difficult to find, since there wasn’t any sign but only concrete walls around it.

Once you get in the building, you’ll be interviewed by a person, who will probably ask why you aren’t traveling with a guide or a translator.

For this conversation, it’s important to wear local clothes, be extremely polite and pretend that you know your way around the country.

We said we had good friends in Bamyan and Herat, that they would be our translators, which seemed to satisfy him.

He’ll also ask for the provinces you plan to visit and after the interview, you’ll speak to the highest authority from this department, the person responsible for signing your travel permit and giving the final OK.

Good luck.

Afghanistan travel tip: Remember that on Friday, the offices are closed.

How to register at the regional office

Once you get your general travel permit, you will also have to register at the regional Information & Culture Department of every province you visit.

For example, if you visit Kandahar, the first thing you should do before sightseeing is just showing up at the respective office to get the local permit, which you will get only if you show them the general travel permit you got in Kabul.

This local permit will allow you to visit freely all the sites within the province.

Where are these offices located?

• Herat is here
• Kandahar is here
• Bamyan is here
• Mazar is here

How to deal with the Taliban when you’re in Afghanistan

Taliban are everywhere and, as an independent traveler, you will have to interact with them at checkpoints or when trying to get your permits.

Here’s what you need to know about it.

Taliban are generally kind with foreigners

Believe it or not, most Taliban I spoke with were particularly nice and helpful.

They are mostly Pashtun, a group of people living across Pakistan and Afghanistan, known for being the most hospitable people on Earth, ruled by a code of conduct that dictates that guests should be protected with their own life if needed.

I personally believe that, on most occasions, their kindness is genuine but you also need to remember that Taliban wish to be recognized as a legit Government and that their extreme kindness could be part of that strategy.

Taking photos with Talib boys

Taliban are usually very keen to be photographed or to be in selfies, and they seem to enjoy it a lot, so don’t be shy and just ask.

Remember that you don’t need to like them, but at least pretend that you do

Look, I have no particular sympathy for the Taliban.

At the end of the day, we all know that their aim is imposing and forcing all Afghans to follow their fundamentalist Orthodox ideas of Islam.

However, if you want to travel around the country independently, you will need to play along with their game and if you are not willing to do that, perhaps you should travel in Afghanistan with a local guide, so your interactions with them will be minimum.

I am at a stage where I don’t really care to be judged by other travelers – or people reading this blog – so know that in Kabul, I did buy a Taliban flag, which I showed and waved at checkpoints when I found it convenient, just to make our journey a smooth one.

What’s the general opinion on Taliban?

It’s important to remember that Afghanistan is the most conservative country in the world (along with Yemen and way more than Saudi Arabia) and whether we like it or not, many Afghans – and that includes many women too – haven’t seen their lives changed with the new Taliban rule and that reason is that they were already following those rules.

This is the reason why Taliban are supported by a massive part of the total population.

Moreover, there’s another significant segment of Afghans who, while they don’t necessarily agree with the Taliban agenda, accept them because they have brought stability and safety across the country.

Nonetheless, remember that not everyone supports them, especially Hazara people – a Shia minority – and that there are many Afghans who, while still conservative, are not happy with their extremist ideas, like banning women from higher education, for example.

How to travel to Afghanistan as a women

What is the situation like for female travelers in Afghanistan?

If you are traveling with a man, it should be fine but solo female travelers will certainly have a different experience.

My friend and fellow traveler Emma Witters has traveled solo extensively across Afghanistan, including in provinces such as Helmand.

You can reach her at @emmawitters_

How to get to Afghanistan

How to travel to Afghanistan by air

Every day, more and more airlines have resumed their operations in Kabul.

Kam Air is the national airline that can take you to Kabul. They have daily flights from Dubai and Islamabad, and also occasional flights from Tashkent, Istanbul, Abu Dhabi and Doha.

Today, you can also fly with Emirates, Fly Dubai and Turkish Airlines.

Just check flight schedules on their website.

How to travel to Afghanistan by land

Afghanistan shares a border with:

Pakistan: The Khyber Pass at Torkham is finally open but this is the most chaotic border I have ever crossed.

Iran: It’s fully operational. From the Iranian city of Mashhad, you can get into Herat. Many travelers have used this border in the past.

Turkmenistan: The border is open as long as you have valid visas but this is truly unexplored territory. I contacted a Turkmen fixer who told me that Turkmen visas are often denied if your idea is to enter or exit Afghanistan from Turkmenistan, but there’s a chance to get in.

Uzbekistan: You can get into Afghanistan from the city of Termez. Mazar-i-Sharif is the closest big city. Here you have the border crossing report.

China: Very deep into the Wakhan Corridor, at 4,923m above sea level, the Wakhir pass connects Afghanistan with China. The border is closed for foreigners and in any case, it’s just too remote to go.

Tajikistan: There are a few border crossings. Ishkashim used to be the most popular one but that one is closed now. Shir Khan, near Kunduz, is the one that is now open to foreign adventures.

Independent travel in Afghanistan

Is independent travel allowed in Afghanistan?

Yes, it is, as long as you have a valid travel permit. Check the permit section of this post.

Is backpacking in Afghanistan difficult?

Well, it depends on your previous backpacking experience and where you want to go within Afghanistan but, to be honest, I didn’t find it more difficult than backpacking in Pakistan.

If you are planning to visit Mazar, Herat, Kabul or Bamyan, it shouldn’t be very difficult. There is plenty of local transportation or you can easily take a domestic flight.

My recommendation would be however, to save the name and location of your hotel because for security purposes, some hotels in Afghanistan have no signs, so they can be difficult to find.

Visiting rural areas, Kandahar province or traveling beyond Bamyan in Ghor province is a different story. Nobody speaks English, hotels are scarce (if any) and there’s little public transportation.

We did travel from Kabul to Herat through the Hindu Kush by public transportation. It was difficult but worth the adventure. Check the travel report.

Best time to visit Afghanistan

With different geographical areas, Afghanistan can be a year-round destination.

Traveling in Afghanistan season by season:

Traveling to Afghanistan in winter

In winter, many parts of Afghanistan are covered in snow, with temperatures reaching -20ºC in places like Bamyan or the Wakhan.

In my opinion, this is the prettiest season to visit Afghanistan.

Nevertheless, remember that winter doesn’t come with its own issues, and that roads and certain things may be blocked.

We did run one expedition during the heart of winter in Afghanistan, and it was great. Check our upcoming Afghan expeditions here.

Traveling to Afghanistan in spring & autumn

From a tourism perspective, spring and autumn are the best seasons for visiting Afghanistan, when the weather is pleasant across the whole country.

Nevertheless, it can be too early/late for trekking in the Wakhan Corridor.

In late spring or early autumn, it might already be too hot for Mazar or Kandahar. In fact, I visited them in May and the temperature was already at nearly 40ºC.

Traveling to Afghanistan in summer

In summer, cities like Herat, Mazar and Kandahar are hell ovens, with temperatures averaging over 40ºC.

Kabul is hot too but, because of the high altitude, it can be bearable for some.

Summer, nonetheless, is the best season for trekking along the Wakhan Corridor.

Top 5 experiences in Afghanistan

Some of the best things to do in Afghanistan are:

1. Strolling the streets of Old Kabul

The old city of Kabul is one of those places where there is always something to look at.

It’s chaotic, lively, bustling and its different bazaars are composed of labyrinthic lanes which are perfect for random rambling.

The bird market is perhaps the most acclaimed spot among travelers.

2. Trekking in Bamyan

Few places in Afghanistan feel as peaceful as Bamyan, a mountainous, remote region in central Afghanistan, home to a large ancient Buddhist heritage and some of the most epic, unspoiled mountains in the country.

If you like nature, it doesn’t get better than Bamyan.

3. Learning about the Taliban legacy in Kandahar

Kandahar is the former Taliban capital, where the Taliban movement started and also Mullah Omar’s home city.

It’s also the heartland of the Pashtun, a world apart from the rest of Afghanistan.

4. Visiting the Blue Mosque of Mazar-i-Sharif

This is one of the most imposingly beautiful mosques I have ever seen, dating from the 15th century, a reason by itself to travel all the way to Mazar.

5. Getting off the beaten track in rural Afghanistan

Afghanistan’s countryside offers some of the most unspoiled and authentic areas in the world, regions that have received very little exposure from the outside world, and are home to mesmerizing, lush valleys dotted with adobe-made villages and curious locals.

Budget, money, and costs in Afghanistan

In Afghanistan, their currency is called the Afghani (AFN) and approximately:

$1 = 72 AFN

Afghani or Afghan?
Some people commit the funny mistake (including myself in the past) of referring to the people of Afghanistan as Afghani. It’s wrong. Afghani is their currency and the people are Afghans.

Exchanging money in Afghanistan

I always change money at one of the many stalls in Shahr-e Naw, in Kabul.

They accept both Euros and USD. They even accept Pakistani rupees, in case you have any left from your trip to Pakistan.

ATMs in Afghanistan

Surprisingly, ATMs in Afghanistan do accept international credit and debit cards.

Just look for Afghan International Bank. There are quite a few of them in Kabul, especially in Shahr-e Naw area.

Paying by card in Afghanistan

You might be able to withdraw money from an ATM but you can’t pay by card anywhere in Afghanistan, so do have cash for your trip.

How much does it cost to travel to Afghanistan?

Everyday life in Afghanistan is cheap but domestic flights and accommodation add up.

Here’s an overview of the most typical costs.

How much do food and drinks cost in Afghanistan?

• Breakfast in a local restaurant (usually consisting of eggs, bread and tea) – 100 AFS
• Local meal in a restaurant (usually palaw rice, kebab, etc) – 200-300 AFS
• Meal in a mid-range restaurant – 400-600 AFS

How much does transportation cost in Afghanistan?

• One-way domestic flight – 60-120 USD
• Taxi within cities – 50 AFN for short taxi rides. Up to 200-250 AFN for longer ones.
• Half-day taxi in Kabul – Once, I hired a driver in Kabul for the morning to take me to a bunch of different places I had in mind. He charged me 20 USD for that.
• Taxi from the airport to city center – 500 AFN in Kabul, 300-400 AFN in Herat or Mazar.
• One-way taxi to Bamyan – 75 USD
• Round-trip taxi ride to Panjshir – 50 USD
• Local bus within the city – 5 AFN

How much does accommodation cost in Afghanistan?

Here’s the thing.

Good, decent accommodation can get pricey.

Expect to pay anything between 30 USD and 50 USD for a room, a relatively basic one but clean and with security.

You can definitely find cheaper hotels but there won’t be any kind of security.

Getting around in Afghanistan: transportation

How to travel around Afghanistan by public transportation

Afghanistan has a good network of buses, minibuses and local shared taxis connecting towns and cities.

Experienced budget backpackers won’t find it difficult to move around the country.

Read: Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

How to travel around Afghanistan by plane

Taking a domestic flight is also a good option for traveling around Afghanistan.

You can book your tickets online on Kam Air.

There’s another local airline named Ariana. That’s the one I use for flying from Kandahar to Kabul.

Note that airlines in Afghanistan aren’t very reliable. They get delayed all the time, especially Ariana.

Note that all domestic flights go through Kabul, and that there’s no direct flight from Herat to Mazar, for example, or from Herat to Kandahar, but you need to go through Kabul.

Typically, all flights cost $60-$120 and, if you are already in Afghanistan, I strongly recommend booking it through a physical Kam Air office.

It happened to me once that after booking a flight with Kam Air online, the booking never went through, even though they did charge it from my card. Eventually, I had to go to an actual office to sort it out.

Airport security
The level of security in all Afghanistan airports is absolutely insane, consisting of several security layers with body searches and bag scans. That’s why it’s recommended to be at the airport at least two hours before your departure time.

Facts about the country, the Afghans and their culture

The Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan

Something interesting to mention is that when the Taliban took over, the country officially changed its name from the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan to the Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan.

They also removed any sign of the official flag – the one with black, green, and red stripes and replaced it with the Talib-friendly white flag, today visible everywhere.

Afghanistan is multi-ethnic

Afghanistan is composed of several ethnicities, including Pashtuns (42%), Tajik (27%) and Hazara (9%).

Hazara are the Shia minority who have Mongolian features, Bamyan being their heartland.

There’s also a significant population of Uzbeks in Mazer-i-Sharif and around, who mostly came from Uzbekistan escaping the terror from former dictator Islam Karimov.

Dari is the main language, but Pashto is official too

Dari is a variation from Farsi, the language spoken in Iran.

Afghans and Iranians can understand each other without a problem.

Dari is the language used by the administration and it’s spoken by nearly 80% of the population.

Pashto is an official language too but it’s usually spoken only by the Pashtuns, who are the dominant ethnicity.

Language barrier can be a problem sometimes

When traveling in rural Afghanistan across the Hindu Kush, I found communicating with people to be extremely difficult, not only because of the language barrier but even sign language didn’t work, probably because they have had so little Western exposure, that their way of communication is just completely different.

Women in Afghanistan

Afghanistan is the most patriarchal country in the world, with or without the Taliban but, since the latter returned to power, women have lost even more freedom.

It’s not mandatory for women to wear the burqa, they can wear a hijab and they can walk alone in the streets but the Taliban have banned them from accessing higher education.

I actually discussed this particular topic with a Taliban sympathizer and he said that according to Prophet Mohammed, schools must be segregated by gender so there’s no actual room for women now but the new Government is doing their best to figure it out.

What I found truly unreal is that he was actually believing all that shit.

Afghan cuisine

Located at the heart of Central Asia, Afghan food is a mixture of flavors from Iran, Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan.

It’s heavily meat-based to the extent that it can be a struggle for vegetarians venturing into more rural areas.

Their national dish is Kabuli palaw, consisting of rice fried in meat fat typically topped with carrots and raisins and essentially, the same as plov in Uzbekistan.

Afghanistan also has their own dumplings named mantu, typically filled with mutton and covered with yogurt and yellow lentils.

Ashak is the only vegetarian dish in Afghan cuisine, consisting of dumplings filled with leeks and other vegetables.

Is there any alcohol in Afghanistan?

Afghanistan is a dry country, as it was before the Taliban.

Best books for traveling in Afghanistan

Kite runner – Khaled Hosseini

An American bestseller in 2003, Kite runner narrates the story of two Afghan kids in Kabul, a rich boy and the son of his parent’s servants.

The book also gives endless insights of what life in Kabul and Afghanistan is like.

CLICK HERE TO CHECK PRICES

My Life with the Taliban – Abdul Salam Zaeef

This is the mind-blowing biography of a senior former member of the Taliban.

From growing up in conservative, rural Afghanistan to the years he spent in Guantanamo, this amazing book gives priceless insights into the Taliban movement from the inside.

CLICK HERE TO CHECK PRICES

Afghanistan Essential Guide to Customs & Culture – Culture Smart!

Cultural Smart! is a series of guidebooks that focus on the country’s culture, giving loads of information about local customs, cultural etiquette and stuff like that. The one on Afghanistan is great, with deep explanations of why Afghans are so hospitable.

CLICK HERE TO CHECK PRICES

Afghanistan travel guide – Lonely Planet

The travel guide to Afghanistan from Lonely Planet is outdated (2007) but still, is a great source of information on the country. It can be difficult to find a copy.

CLICK HERE TO CHECK PRICES

Internet in Afghanistan

Is there Wi-Fi in Afghanistan?

There’s kind of unreliable Wi-Fi in big cities but if you need it for work, it won’t be good enough.

Getting a SIM card in Afghanistan

To buy a SIM, you’ll have to go to one of the official branches, which tend to open from 8am to 4pm.

There are many mobile companies in Afghanistan, including: Afghan Telecom, Afghan Wirless, Etisalat, MTN, Roshan, and Salaam.

Apparently, each company is only good for certain provinces but everyone was telling us different things.

In the end, I bought MTN because they said it was the best one for all Afghanistan but it only worked in the big cities.

Note that there’s no 4G but only 3G or not even that.

More Information

In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Afghanistan

• Visiting Kandahar
• Is Afghanistan safe?
• 50 Photos that will show you the beauty of Afghanistan
• Overlanding from Kabul to Herat via Minaret of Jam by local transportation

Travel guides to other countries in Central Asia

• Tajikistan Travel Guide
• Travel Guide to Uzbekistan
• Travel Guide to Kazakhstan
• Pakistan Travel Guide
• Kyrgyzstan Travel Guide

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